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Merrimack Valley Magazine

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The Backyard Naturalist – Hunting Season

December 4, 2021 by Sarah Courchesne

Most of the time, “hunting season” refers to deer hunting specifically. That’s the default around here anyway. Gunfire is not rare at any time of year in my neighborhood; there are the usual exuberant, inexplicable nighttime volleys that seem to erupt out of sheer ballistic joy, and the metronomic rhythm of can shooting on Sunday afternoons. When it’s deer hunting time, there are new sounds: single gunshots sounding from the forests and swamps to the west and north of us, usually early in the morning or late in the afternoon, fading toward dusk. Deer and deer hunters are crepuscular.

I’m not a hunter myself, but I often curious about what is permissible to shoot at any given time here in New Hampshire. I’m partial to the oddities, the less prestigious quarries. I like to know when gray squirrel hunting season is, and crow season. I like to know what the bag limits are — how many you can kill per day — which for squirrels is five (but you may never hunt them in a cemetery), and which for crows is unlimited. 

It’s strange, what you can hunt and what you can’t. Almost all birds in the United States are protected from human harm by the Migratory Bird Treaty Act, but as Cornell University’s “All About Birds” website puts it: “Not all North American bird species are protected under the act. Birds that are considered non-native species such as the House Sparrow and the European Starling are not protected, and many groups of hunted or game birds, including ducks, geese, doves, and many shorebirds are subject to limited protection and can be hunted in season.”

 

©LARRY DALLAIRE

The logic is circular: Some birds can be hunted because they are hunted. Some birds, it seems, just look like meat. I cannot dispute this in the case of the ruffed grouse. They are chicken-size, chicken-shaped birds, rounded, bosomy. Their Latin name, Bonasa umbellus, emphasizes maleness; the first part means “wild bull” and the second “umbrella,” for the ruff of feathers around the neck that is most prominent in displaying males. Actually, the birds seem matronly in appearance; even the males remind me of my backyard hens. 

In spring, the male grouse attempt to attract mates by standing on logs or stone walls and drumming their wings against their sides, making a percussive rising and falling that sounds like the cantankerous rope-pull-start lawnmower of my youth, winding up and then failing to catch, over and over. There are surveys for these grouse drumming displays, where biologists and volunteers station themselves at designated roadsides and listen, and this helps scientists get a sense of their abundance.

Hunters do much of the citizen science monitoring work on grouse populations; a research program through New Hampshire Fish and Game asks them to submit feather samples and report what they find when they open the birds’ gastrointestinal tracts. This gives a snapshot of their diets. Last year’s report showed the contents were mostly catkins, alder leaves, fern leaves, birch buds, beechnuts, cranberries and beetles, slugs and mushrooms. After I read that list, it kept coming back to me for days, though I couldn’t determine why. Something about it raised a feeling of tenderness in me, a nostalgia that I could not place. Then, walking through the woods behind my house, it occurred to me that these grouse had been eating almost exactly the wild menus I used to create when I was a child, laying out berries and nuts on little leaf plates for creatures I hoped would come dine while I hid in the underbrush. I left that childish project aside as I grew up, of course. Turns out, I only needed to wait for a grouse to join me at the table.   

Filed Under: Home & Garden Tagged With: birds, Environment, grouse, hunter, Hunting, nature

Randy Drago’s Pulled Goose Recipe

March 11, 2017 by Doug Sparks Leave a Comment

Although duck is seen as a challenge for home chefs, we were fortunate to get this recipe from Randy Drago as he guided our Editor Doug Sparks on his first hunting expedition. Duck, duck, goose… pulled goose with barb

Serves 6

Ingredients:
3 to 4 pounds wild goose breast
1 cup orange juice
½ cup maple sugar
¼ cup red wine vinegar
1 white onion with the stem and root ends removed, skinned and halved
1 packet McCormick Slow Cookers BBQ Pulled Pork Seasoning Mix
2 cups Sweet Baby Ray’s Barbecue Sauce

Directions:
1. If using wild goose, thoroughly search breast for pellets and remove them.
2. Combine all ingredients except for the onion. Heat in a slow cooker on low for 7 hours.
3. Shred the meat using two forks and add onion. Cook an additional hour, stirring occasionally.
4. Serve on bread over 1 or 2 slices of the onion.

Recipe courtesy:
Randy Drago
Newburyport, Mass.
CFCharters.com

Filed Under: Food & Drink Tagged With: Hunting, Randy Drago, Wildlife

Stalking the Wild Puddle Jumper

March 11, 2017 by Doug Sparks Leave a Comment

Hunting Migratory Birds

I’m standing in predawn darkness at an undisclosed private property in New Hampshire. Randy Drago and his uncle Tony have been here before, hired by the owner to remove various unwanted creatures, including a pesky muskrat. Today, the Dragos are hunting geese and ducks. It’s one of the coldest days of the season so far, and even though I’m wearing gloves and camo gear over multiple layers of clothing, my teeth start to chatter.

Randy, 26, a hunter since boyhood, killed his first pheasant at the age of 11, but it wasn’t until he got his driver’s license and the freedom to go wherever he wanted that his interest in hunting became all-consuming. Plus, the car gave him a place to practice his duck calls.

The night before our hunt, he worked second shift as a welder. This is typical — he often hunts after only a few hours of sleep.

While Randy is quiet and reserved, Tony, 51, a Raytheon employee and former hunting educator, is warm and talkative. His depth of knowledge makes him sound at times like a lawyer, storyteller, lawman and backwoods philosopher. He often hunts and traps every day, even though he has a full-time job.

 

Tony Drago, left, and his nephew Randy, right, face the rising sun and listen for the sounds of waterfowl in the distance. Photo by Ryan W. Owen.

“If you don’t feel anything when you take a life,” Tony begins, “you shouldn’t be out here.” He reels off information on gun regulations and bag limits for different species. For a man who is quick to cite “Live Free or Die,” the New Hampshire state motto, as a guiding principle, he makes clear that he will play by the rules, whatever they may be. He reports poachers to the fish and game department. He doesn’t fire on legal targets if doing so doesn’t fit his moral code, whatever the law may be. As we walk, he reaches down to pick up trash left by previous visitors.

He explains to me, “The wilderness will teach you things every time you go out.” Duck calls, blinds (the various constructions hunters use to conceal themselves), weather patterns, lures — mastering hunting requires constant study. Animals survive based on their intelligence, and they are quick to adapt. The lessons of nature constantly shift.

This is no simple hobby to pursue. Aspiring hunters start with a hunter’s education course, usually offered free by state governments. There are additional requirements and licensing, and the equipment isn’t cheap. While the price of certain items has come down — Tony tells me that today’s plastic bird decoys would have been affordable only to affluent hunters when he was younger — they are still not inexpensive. Decoy packs start at $60 and, generally, the more you use, the better your chances. On the day of our hunt, Randy and Tony both carry $1,200 12-gauge shotguns. There’s the cost of ammunition, which has risen steadily.

A good pair of camo waders (ducks have exceptional eyesight, so all gear must be camo, or at least matte finished) can cost over $200. The birdcalls? The better ones run over $50. Gas, material for blinds, boats? All of these turn hunting into an expensive hobby. And that’s before you hit the open air. Even though the Dragos supplement their income as field guides and trappers, they rarely break even.

Attention to detail is strict. Randy says migratory birds might be driven away by spotting an out-of-place tinfoil wrapper on the ground. On this day, he’s convinced we’re having bad luck because of our photographer’s shiny black camera — wildlife photographers learn to wrap their lenses and cameras in camouflage. Still, photography is a welcome aspect of the hunt itself. When Tony meets people who aren’t interested in hunting because they don’t want to take a life, he tells them, “That’s fine! But you can get out anyway. Hunt with a camera!”

Waterfowl hunters collect bands taken from birds — these are critical for monitoring duck and geese migration and populations. After reporting them to the Bird Banding Laboratory of the United States Geological Survey, some hunters add these bands to the necklaces they use to carry duck calls. While hunters may go years and only collect one or two bands, Randy’s necklace holds more than 40.

Randy is a natural hunter, but he also enjoys teaching. He works with children, helping them to learn hunting and fishing skills. This work is difficult, given his tight schedule, but passing on his knowledge to the next generation is part of the hunting tradition.

I ask him if there is any time of the year when he can’t hunt or fish, and he tells me there’s a period in March between seasons. “You must be crawling out of your skin,” I note, but he shrugs this off and says it gives him time to work on his boat.

Left: MVM’s Doug Sparks in camo. Photo by Ryan W. Owen. Right: Hunters employ various methods to collect their catches, including the use of trained dogs. Photo by Eric Call.

As geese fly overhead, I stand still as instructed. Randy calls, and four geese are lured to the pond. They are at the limits of his range, but he decides to fire. The birds burst into flight, uninjured. It is only the second time in my life that I have ever seen a shot fired at a living thing (the first time involved a deer that had been struck by a car and left for dead before being dispatched by a police officer).

I anticipated this moment, and spent the week before wondering how it would feel. With plain honesty, I feel something that must hint at the split mind of the hunter: As the birds rise in flight, time seems to stop. The icy November wind is forgotten. The sunrise flight seems almost like a miracle, and this feeling spreads through me like joy. And yet, at the same time, I’m disappointed they have gotten away.

As Tony explains it, people who grow up only knowing wildlife from television and movies sometimes have a hard time directly experiencing its complexities. If wildlife populations grow out of control, they do more than tarnish the pretty landscape with droppings. They bring disease, the destruction of homes and threats to other species. A trapper, he is hired by people to remove wildlife for many of these reasons. When possible, he practices trap and transfer — caught animals are brought to new locations.
He gives away meat to food banks and friends and uses unpalatable scraps to bait coyote traps. He labors to eliminate waste.

Hunting helps control animal populations and aids conservation efforts. In many places around the region, if you hike on public land for free, you have hunters to thank. Ninety-eight percent of the money raised by the Federal Duck Stamp Program, which started during the presidency of Franklin D. Roosevelt, goes to conservation. If you are over the age of 16 and hunt migratory birds anywhere in the United States, you are required to participate.

Randy’s necklace. The number of bands he has collected testifies to his abilities as a hunter. He is also an expert with the duck calls seen here. Perfecting their use requires discipline and natural ability. Photo by Ryan W. Owen.

For the second time this morning, the Dragos hold up their hands and silence me. They hear geese. I listen closely. Silence. I begin to think they are mistaken. And then, I hear them off in the distance. The tension rises as the birds come into view. Guns are raised. The birds land on the pond. Randy draws a breath and fires.

The birds erupt into the morning air and my ears ring with the sound of quacking geese and echoing shotgun blasts. “Oh well,” Randy says, “at least they won’t be staying here all day.” The property owner would be happy even if the Dragos headed home without having caught anything.

The hunt over, Randy drives me to Stateline Guns, Ammo & Archery in Plaistow, N.H., where I had parked my car. The store’s owner, Gene Rochette, was the person who suggested I should take my first hunting trip with Randy. I was hoping to find someone who could both hunt and cook, and Randy’s pulled wild goose recipe has been the object of much admiration at the gun shop ( we’ll post his recipe here later today, so check back ). Before parting, Randy gives me his recipe  and some frozen goose breast. He explains how to search for and remove shotgun pellets before cooking — something you don’t have to worry about if you’re using store-bought game. Still in our waders, we drive off to meet the day.

 

Randy Drago
Newburyport, Mass.

CFCharters.com

Tony Drago, Southern New Hampshire Wildlife Control
Salem, N.H.

nhwildlifetrapper@aol.com

Stateline Guns, Ammo & Archery
Plaistow, N.H.

(603) 382-4143
StatelineGuns.com

Filed Under: Community, Food & Drink Tagged With: conservation, Ducks, Hunting, wilderness, Wildlife

The Hidden World

September 12, 2016 by Doug Sparks

Mushroom Hunting in the Merrimack Valley

Lurking in the lichen and peering forth from tree stumps in the woods at Horse Hill Nature Preserve and Bear Brook State Park in New Hampshire, and at Harold Parker State Forest in North Andover, grow deadly galerinas, destroying angels and death caps. Eat one and you may never hike again.

Mycophiles, lovers of fungi, have a saying: There are old mushroom hunters. And there are bold mushroom hunters. But there are no old, bold mushroom hunters.

Despite the danger, mushroom hunting can be a safe hobby, even for children. In places such as Russia, Japan and Italy, some children are raised with mushroom hunting as an inexpensive weekend activity that connects them with nature and the wisdom of older family members. Mushroom hunting has rapidly increased in popularity in the United States over the past few years, although it is still something of a fringe pursuit. When I attended a guided foray in June at Boxford State Forest in Boxford, participants spoke with a broad range of accents: Czech, Chinese and Portuguese among them.

 

Marsha Browne, the event coordinator, served as the expert identifier. Among the 35 walkers present were children and beginners. She began by instructing everyone on how to harvest mushrooms safely.

Browne’s own journey began in 2010, when she was introduced to the world of mushroom hunting by her Parisian husband. She says she was something of an “idiot savant” when it came to mycology, and whatever information she learned stuck in her brain. She joined the Boston Mycological Club and within a short period had gathered an unusual level of expertise. Early on, she drew the mushrooms in a small notebook she kept with her to help train herself to recognize critical details. When she showed her notebook to the group, eyes lit up. The drawings were precise and colorful, hinting of the underground world that surrounds us that we often fail to notice. 

Left: Photo by Adrien Bisson. Right: David Zhang holds a prized chicken of the woods mushroom. This species is a favored edible and is common to the region. When properly prepared, this mushroom has a complex taste and lobster-like texture. It only grows in the wild and cannot be cultivated. Before eating any wild mushroom, it is critical to have your finds verified by an expert. Photo by Doug Sparks.

Wicker baskets in hand, we set out on our walk. It wasn’t long before the discussion turned to methods of warding off tics and mosquitoes. In the summer heat, long pants were tucked into socks. Bug sprays were passed around.  

The prize haul of the day was gathered by Dave Zhang, a first time mushroom hunter and Burlington resident who was born near Beijing. His chicken of the woods was notable both for being out of season and for being a pristine and choice edible (the best tasting of edible mushrooms). “Beginner’s luck,” he said after the mushroom was placed on the identification table. Even early in the season, and with unfavorably dry conditions, hunters discovered other edibles, including a giant horse mushroom, which smells like licorice and is the larger, tastier relative of the button mushrooms commonly served on pizza.

Many factors are involved in safe mushroom identification, including the size, shape and structure of the gills. Here, the chanterelle’s “false” gills — more like ridges or folds than normal gills — are a key feature of this delicate edible. This particular flush of chanterelles was discovered, cooked and consumed by the author and his wife. Photo by Doug Sparks.

What you see when you find any mushroom, be it the classic toadstool or the fan shaped and leathery turkey tail, is merely the fruiting body of an invisible network of hidden white threads called mycelium. Without mycelium, fallen trees and leaves would not rot and nutrients would not return to the soil. Fungal mycelium is the hidden hand that turns the circle of life.

The Merrimack Valley is well served by widespread and well-maintained public nature trails and two superbly run organizations. The first is the Boston Mycological Club. Started more than a century ago, it is the oldest amateur mushroom club in the United States and it provides inexpensive lectures and tours for members and nonmembers. The club’s weekend forays often include walks in the Merrimack Valley. The other resource is the Mushroom Lovers USA Meetup. The club sponsors forays and talks throughout the region, including regular visits to Andover and Boxford, all for an annual fee of five dollars.  

Learning to identify the various species means training the eye to identify obvious signs, such as color and size, and also the less obvious. Is there a ring around the stipe — the stem of the mushroom? Are the gills crowded, forked or “fake”? Different species release different colored spores, so mushroom caps are left on paper overnight for a spore print. The spore colors range from salmon to cream. On top of helping to properly identify a sample, the resulting pattern can be striking.

Even experts find it hard to predict when mushrooms will flourish, but there is one factor that triggers growth in many species: rainfall. Because of this, our region never sees the volume of fruiting bodies that grow in, say, the Pacific Northwest, but we still boast a wide variety of edible and medicinal species.

Chicken of the woods is a nongilled, bright orange species that tastes best when growing from oak. Young and cooked properly, it has a lobster-like texture and a rich taste that’s perfect for barbecue. Hen of the woods, also called maitake, looks like a hen’s behind. It is another nongilled mushroom, and is treasured in Asia for its taste and health properties. The black trumpet, aka the death trumpet, might have an ominous name, but it is a choice edible, perfect for omelets. Oyster mushrooms are one of the few edibles to grow in colder seasons, but they aren’t recommended for beginners, as you need some identification skills to properly and safely recognize them. Fortunately, oysters can also be cultivated. Fat Moon farm in Westford sells various types of oysters, and it’s a great place to visit if wild mushrooms are out of season or if you don’t know your polypores from your portobellos. Finally, chanterelles are a favorite of chefs. With false gills — folds and creases instead of plates — they smell like apricots and have a delicate, fruity taste. They also have a few toxic look-alikes, including the jack-o’-lantern, which is bioluminescent. In Mark Twain’s “Adventures of Huckleberry Finn,” Huck uses this glowing mushroom to shine “foxfire” in the forest night.

This year has proved to be uncommonly dry. Mycophiles watch the skies and hope for storms. Then, slippery jacks and milk caps will arise from the duff, and the hunt will continue on.          

To learn how to safely hunt for mushrooms, visit:
meetup.com/Mushroom-Lovers-USA
bostonmycologicalclub.org

Don’t have time to wait for the storms? Visit:
thefatmoon.com/mushrooms

Want a delicious recipe for Oyster Mushroom Bruschetta with Kale Pesto and Goat Cheese Cream? Click here.

Filed Under: Community, Health & Wellness Tagged With: fungi, Hunting, mushroom, Mycophiles

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