Merrimack Valley Magazine

2021 MVMA Winners – Good Eats

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We are happy to present the winners of the 2021 Merrimack Valley Magazine Awards. This spring, the top picks in all categories were chosen by our readers via our online voting platform. Thank you to everyone who took the time to vote and congratulations to all the winners.

Alfresco Dining
Cobblestones of Lowell
Known for their hand-cut steaks, burgers and seafood, Cobblestones of Lowell combines comfort food with regionally inspired American fare and contemporary selections. Dining outside at Cobblestones comes with its perks — beyond the sights of downtown Lowell, there’s occasional live music and entertainment.
91 Dutton St.
Lowell, Mass.
CobblestonesOfLowell.com

American
The Loft
The Loft in North Andover has created a rustic, inviting atmosphere for enjoying food and spirits. They serve fine USDA top-choice steaks, fresh seafood, poultry, produce and are open for lunch, dinner and private celebrations.
1140 Osgood St.
North Andover, Mass.
LoftSteakAndChopHouse.com

Asian
Blue Taleh
Located in downtown Lowell, Blue Taleh offers Thai, Japanese and sushi cuisine as well as a famous martini menu. Visit them and enjoy their cocktails, traditional maki dishes, and much more.
15 Kearney Sq.
Lowell, Mass.
BlueTalehLowell.com

Butcher
Alpine Butcher
Alpine Butcher has remained in the Doyle family since its start in 1913. The beef is USDA prime, and their pork and chicken are humanely raised as well as antibiotic- and hormone-free.
963 Chelmsford St.
Lowell, Mass.
AlpineButcher.com

Coffee Shops & Café’s
Frobie’s Cafe
This family-friendly cafe brings coffee, smoothies, acai bowls, juices, breakfast sandwiches and more to the Merrimack Valley food scene. The pleasant staff and tasty treats have earned Frobie’s a loyal following since it opened in 2014.
101 Broadway Rd.
Dracut, Mass.
Frobies.com 

CSA
Farmer Dave’s
Farmer Dave’s is a farm that responsibly grows a myriad of vegetables and fruits. With their CSA programs and “pick-your-own” offerings, Farmer Dave’s is committed to keeping their community strong and healthy.
437 Parker Rd.
Dracut, Mass.
FarmerDaves.net

Frozen Treats
Sullivan Farms Ice Cream
Sullivan Farms Ice Cream in Tyngsboro is known for their variety. They offer over 50 traditional flavors and seasonal options such as Bailey’s Irish Cream and White Chocolate Caramel Latte.
176 Middlesex Rd.
Tyngsboro, Mass.
SullivanFarmsIceCream.com

 

Italian
Al Fresca Ristorante
Family-owned and run Al Fresca Ristorante brings a taste of Italy to Tewksbury. They offer homemade Italian cuisine, handcrafted cocktails, and a private dining space perfect for events.
1768 Main St.
Tewksbury, Mass.
AlfrescaRistorante.com

Irish Pub
Peddler’s Daughter
The Peddler’s Daughter has locations in Nashua and Haverhill. In addition to their Irish cuisine, they are open for brunch and dinner. Plus, they offer an extensive whiskey menu.
Haverhill, Mass. & Nashua, N.H.
ThePeddlersDaughter.com

Mexican
Casa Blanca
Casa Blanca’s Mexican dishes make them a staple for Mexican authentic cuisine in the Merrimack Valley. The atmosphere is inviting, the food is fresh, and the margaritas may be some of the best in the region.
Andover, Haverhill, Methuen, North Andover, North Billerica and Wilmington, Mass.
CasaBlancaMexican.com 

Middle Eastern
Jocelyn’s Mediterranean Restaurant & Lounge
Jocelyn’s offers Lebanese and American food, a full-service bar and even a martini lounge. The menu boasts lamb, kafta and kibbee dishes, as well as a vegetarian combo appetizer plate.
355 South Broadway
Salem, N.H.
JocelynsRestaurant.com

New Restaurant
Tuscan Sea Grill & Bar
An original restaurant concept of Tuscan Brands, Tuscan Sea Grill & Bar features locally sourced seafood, a raw bar, pasta, and much more. With a waterfront location overlooking the Merrimack River, guests can enjoy harbor views and warm weather alfresco dining.
38 Rear Merrimac St.
Newburyport, Mass.
TuscanSea.com

Pastry Shops / Bakery
Purple Carrot Bread Co.
Every item on Purple Carrot Bread Co.’s menu is made from scratch, from hearty stews to salad dressings and condiments. Rustic breads are the heart of Purple Carrot’s menu: Country Blonde, Kalamata olive, rosemary and garlic ciabatta are among the popular offerings.
107 Merrimack St.
Lowell, Mass.
PurpleCarrotBreadCo.com

Pizza
Flatbread Company
Beginning in Amesbury in the summer of 1998, Flatbread Company has prioritized serving real food, by real people, in a real environment. They partner with farms, supporting their surrounding communities and bringing an authentic taste to their pizzas.
Multiple Locations
FlatbreadCompany.com

Seafood
Seaglass Restaurant & Lounge
Located on the shores of the Atlantic, guests at Seaglass enjoy lunch and dinner with panoramic views framed by floor-to-ceiling windows while seated at tables over the ocean. Their seafood menu celebrates the ocean’s bounty by taking the freshest fish and treating it to the creative preparation of their culinary team.
4 Oceanfront North
Salisbury, Mass.
SeaglassOceanside.com

Specialty Market
Borrelli’s Italian Deli
Established in the Merrimack Valley over 50 years ago, Borelli’s Italian Deli is known for its Italian products, including their famous sausage and cold cuts. Borelli’s also offers hot subs, paninis, salads and specialty sandwiches.
322 Merrimack St.
Methuen, Mass.
BorrellisDeli.com

Wine Shop *TIE*
Andover Classic Wines
Locally owned and operated for its entire existence, Andover Classic Wines features more than 1,800 wines from every fine wine region, over 1,100 craft beers from around the world, and hundreds of the best bourbons, scotches, whiskeys, rums, gins, tequilas and other spirts.
209 N. Main St.
Andover, Mass.
AndoverClassicWines.com

Wine ConneXtion
Boasting “excellent wines at exceptional prices” customers at Wine ConneXtion can browse their large, open, cellar-style design that helps educate their clientele on everything from the characteristics of the wine to food pairings.
117 Main St.
North Andover, Mass.
WineConnextion.com

World Cuisine
Olympia Restaurant
Olympia Restaurant has been serving the Merrimack Valley Greek cuisine since 1952. They specialize in fresh USDA Colorado lamb, traditional Greek specialties, chicken, pork, Angus steak, chops, seafood and more.
453 Market St.
Lowell, Mass.
NewOlympia.com

Stop by next week for the winners of the ‘Health & Beauty’ category.

 

The 2021 MVMAs are sponsored by:

Jeanne D'Arc Credit Union logo

Wine Notes – The Freak of Austria

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It’s never easy to step out of your comfort zone. We find something we like, or dislike, and stick with our opinion. If you are truly interested in expanding your knowledge of wine, you must be open-minded and try everything. Sometimes I make it a point to taste wines that I am sure I won’t like, if only to confirm my prejudices. So my wife and I regularly attend as many free wine tastings as we can. To be honest, these aren’t free, because we always find something we like and then the wallet opens. 

We were at the Wine Connextion in North Andover and the owner, Sam, said to me,  “You gotta come out back and try this new wine I’m bringing in from Austria.” Austria? I’ve tasted very little wine from Austria, so his suggestion piqued my interest. The wine turned out to be bold and spicy with a great aromatic finish. I examined the oddly shaped bottle, staring at it for a minute or so in confusion. Wine labels are often difficult to understand, especially when you aren’t familiar with the language. I had to ask which word on the bottle indicated the grape variety: blaufränkisch. I’d never heard of it and didn’t know how to pronounce it.

 

My wine journey just took a new direction. I now needed to learn about, and start drinking, wine from Austria. Next stop was Andover Classic Wines to ask the owner, Andrea, what she had in Austrian wines. She introduced me to a dry white called grüner veltliner and a zweigelt rosé. Both were excellent. Crisp, not overprocessed. These were light wines, perfect for warm weather. But I was after a big, bold red.

Next, I attended a tasting presented by Austrian winemaker Christof Höpler. He offered his grüner veltliner, a white varietal and the most planted grape in Austria, along with selections of riesling, zweigelt and pinot noir. The last was my favorite, and it was a bargain at $20. Höpler described his pinot as an Old World wine made in a modern style, and noted, “We have very modern cellars and don’t have fungus in our cellars.” I asked, “Do you think Austrian wineries are cleaner than wineries in France?” He answered, “If you were to look at 100 wineries in Austria and 100 wineries in France, yes.” 

To understand why he is so adamant about high standards, it helps to know that Austria revamped its wine laws after a 1985 scandal in which several wineries illegally added diethylene glycol, which is often used as a primary ingredient in antifreeze, to sweeten their products. The news went international, and the Austrian wine industry went into a free fall. In the aftermath, Austrian winemakers turned away from their previous specialization of sweet wines. 

I asked Höpler about his favorite wine. His answer? Blaufränkisch. “I think it has a lot of future potential,” he said, but he didn’t have any available to taste. I began to think I was on a fool’s errand, trying to find this elusive freak of Austria.

Still, I continued searching. I looked for blaufränkisch in the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets search engine — don’t use the umlaut over the “a” or you’ll get no results. I found two blaufränkisch wines — Una and Hillinger — on sale at the Hooksett, N.H., location. The Una was a great choice at only $15, but the Hillinger seemed flawed to me, as though it had been overheated during transport or storage. I guess I had begun at the top because neither was as impressive as the backroom beauty I’d tasted at the Wine Connextion.

My journey ended where it began. Sam deserves credit for introducing me to the 2015 Groszer Wein blaufränkisch, a single vineyard wine. It is grown in Szapary Vineyard, located on the steepest south-facing hillside of Eisenberg Mountain. The vines are 40 years old and grow in 100% slate soil. This contributes to the beautiful minerality the wine delivers. All of the grapes are hand harvested and selected, aged in large oak casks, and bottled unfiltered. 

Blaufränkisch needs to be decanted for at least two hours before drinking to realize its full expression. Try tasting a little out of the bottle first to experience the transformation. When we let some rest in a decanter overnight, it was even better the next day. The Groszer Wein blaufränkisch is available at the Wine Connextion for $35, along with a lower-priced version for only $17. 

I’m thinking Greek wine is on my horizon and expect the Euclidean alphabet will be quite a challenge. The hobby of exploring wine is endless, so don’t get stuck in a rut. Salute!  

Andover Classic Wines
Andover, Mass.
(978) 470-0500
AndoverClassicWines.com

Wine Connextion
North Andover, Mass.
(877) 469-5025
WineConnextion.com 

Chateauneuf-du-Pape

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Our wine journey began at a Shaw’s supermarket in 2006. The store was offering a promotion: Buy five bottles and get the sixth one free. It didn’t take long before my wife and I migrated to the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlet, which had a much larger selection. Knowing nothing about wine, choosing what to buy there was difficult at first. Fortunately, the very knowledgeable Joe “The Wine Guy” Comforti (the current wine director at Tuscan Kitchen) worked at the Salem, N.H., store on Saturdays. He suggested that we try a bottle of Chateau La Nerthe’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape. 

All we knew about this wine was that it was French and cost $30 a bottle. We figured it had to be good. 

My wife and I enjoyed that wine so much that we returned the next day and bought a case. The wooden crate that it came in has remained a treasured souvenir all these years, marking the beginning of a wine collection that currently numbers more than 250 bottles. 

Chateauneuf-du-Pape or “The Pope’s New Castle,” is a designated wine region (AOC) in the Rhone Valley of southern France. The region is about 8.5 miles long and 5 miles wide, encompassing several villages and communes. Its name was derived from the historical fact that beginning in 1309, Pope Clement V and eight subsequent popes called Avignon their home. 

Fifteen different grape varieties are allowed by law to be blended into Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines, but 75 percent of the grapes grown in the region are grenache. Most wines made there are a blend of grenache, mourvedre and syrah. The other allowed varieties are blended by winemakers to taste, much like a chef would blend spices into his or her creations. 

Wines from the region tend to be a bit high in alcohol — very bold, earthy and chewy. There are plenty of fruit flavors, but you can also expect a floral nose along with flavors of smoke, coffee, leather, garrigue (wild scrub herbs) and sometimes barnyard. All of these attributes are the result of the terroir. The soil there is loaded with rocks, sand, limestone and clay, making it unsuitable for most crops but fantastic for wine grapes. 

It’s not uncommon for garrigue to be growing among the vines. The barnyard notes are the result of a naturally occurring yeast called Brettanomyces, “Brett” for short. Many winemakers eliminate this yeast, but others embrace it as part of the flavor profile expected from the region. Brett can give off an odor when a bottle is first opened, so when serving Chateauneuf-du-Pape, always decant for one to two hours. 

During a recent visit to Lucia’s Bodega in Windham, N.H., I spied a bottle of 2015 Chateau La Nerthe. The last vintage we had was 2003, and I was hoping we would enjoy the same magic in this one. We experienced the expected complex fruit flavors from this blend of 50 percent grenache, 25 percent syrah, 20 percent mourvedre and 5 percent cinsault. 

Chateau La Nerthe is one of the oldest and largest vineyards in the region, but, as is the case in many other regions, some of the best wines come from smaller producers.

Photography by Kevin Harkins.

I visited Andrea Comeau, beverage catering manager at Andover Classic Wines in Andover and was directed to Domaine Roger Perrin Reserve des Vieilles Vignes Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This winery was established in 1969 and has only 37 acres of vineyards, compared with La Nerthe, which was established as early as 1560 (the historical record is uncertain) and has about 220 acres. Roger Perrin blends 76 percent grenache, 12 percent syrah, 7 percent mourvedre, 3 percent cinsault, 2 percent clairette, 2 percent counoise and 2 percent vaccarese to create a delicious fruit-forward blend with notes of freshly picked sweet berries and a touch of earthiness. At $56, you would expect something special, and you won’t be disappointed.

I also made my way to the Wine Connextion in North Andover, where I found one of their employee picks: Crous St. Martin Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Established in 1879, this winery cultivates 120 acres of vineyards. The wine turned out to be a bargain at $30 a bottle. Along with the bold fruity and earthy tones, there was a floral component to this wine that I really enjoyed.

One thing to look for when buying these wines is the embossed papal crest on each bottle. This crest guarantees authenticity, strict production criteria and, since 1979, a taste test. Wines that do not meet the taster’s standards are refused the right to be labeled for the appellation. 

During the upcoming holiday season, consider gifting a bottle of Chateauneuf-du-Pape to someone special; 2015 was a great vintage, and 2016 is reported to be even better. It’s always at the top of our wish list.

Salute!            

 

Andover Classic Wines
Andover, Mass.
(978) 470-0500
AndoverClassicWines.com

Lucia’s Bodega
Windham, N.H.
(603) 421-9463
LuciasBodega.com

Wine Connextion
North Andover, Mass.
(877) 469-5025
WineConnextion.com 

Spanish Eyes – Jorge Ordóñez Selections

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The Merrimack Valley is loaded with talent. I am amazed by the variety of skills and the level of expertise possessed by the people I meet — people who are responsible for worldwide computer infrastructure, authorities on cyber security, missile defense experts, musical artists and, of course, wine connoisseurs. I shouldn’t be surprised that one of our readers is the wine director for the largest importer of Spanish wine into the U.S. market.

Lowell resident Craig Gandolf has been with Jorge Ordóñez Selections for 20 years. Earlier he worked in the restaurant industry and as a professional sommelier. Following a tour of Spanish vineyards, he changed careers. He is currently the director of Jorge Ordóñez Selections, a brand of the wine broker Fine Estates from Spain.

Craig contacted mvm, saying he has enjoyed reading Wine Notes (flattery will get you everywhere) and invited me to a day of Spanish wine tasting and education. Spanish wines have been on my radar, so this was an offer I could not refuse.

Spain is the third largest producer of wine worldwide, behind France and Italy (the U.S. is fourth), yet it has a limited reputation for quality wines. In the 1980s, Spanish wines were synonymous with cheap bulk wine. Spanish winemakers were focused on growing the most grapes so they could produce the largest quantity of wine. That would change thanks to the work of Ordóñez and others. Sam Messina, co-owner of Wine ConneXtion in North Andover, notes, “Jorge Ordóñez is a genius in the wine industry. He convinced winemakers in Spain to reduce their yields through better growth management in the vineyards and to modernize their winemaking process.”

Photo ©Jorge Ordóñez Selections / Fine Estates from Spain Inc.

In addition, Ordóñez insisted on the refrigerated storage and shipping of his selected wines at every step from the winery to the warehouses. Quality wine contains the smallest amount of sulfites necessary to keep it from spoiling, and it’s fragile as a result. Temperature and time-tracking devices identify problem areas quickly. Last year, 600 cases were ruined because the wine got “cooked” during shipping. The temperature and tracking records enabled the problem to be corrected. Keep this in mind when you are thinking of storing your wine in the kitchen or next to your fireplace.

It was exciting to be treated to a private wine tasting in the Dedham corporate office of this country’s largest Spanish wine importer. I taste wine on a regular basis and thought I knew what to expect. I was wrong. This tasting was on an altogether different level. The table was set for three: Craig, Victor Ordóñez, Jorge’s son and a recent Cornell graduate with a degree in viticulture and enology, and myself. Each setting had two large Riedel Bordeaux glasses filled with distilled water to remove any impurities and off-tastes left over on the glasses from washing, bottles of spring water, a red Solo cup and lots of napkins. Our task was to taste more than 45 wines in about four hours. A waiter brought Craig several bottles at a time, and he was the first to taste the wine. Victor would taste next and then pass the bottle to me. We each poured generously into the large wine glasses, swirled the wines to release the bouquet, took full sips to taste, then spit into the Solo cups. When it comes to wine, that is all a red Solo cup is good for. I asked, “What will you do with all this leftover wine?” “We just dump it,” Craig replied. What a waste.

I had tasted 50 or 60 wines in a day before, but at those tastings only found a few that were acceptable. Of the 45-plus wines we opened that day, one cava had an off-odor but tasted fine. The other wines were excellent, and a handful were truly outstanding and at excellent price points for the quality.

During the tasting, we reviewed images and video explanations of the regions, vineyards and grape varieties. We took a break for lunch after going through the whites, then approached the “big reds” for another couple of hours. Toward the end, I was overwhelmed with all the flavors and began to feel a little tired. Tired, but happy. You just can’t spit everything.

When famed critic Robert Parker of the highly influential Wine Advocate newsletter joins them, Craig opens three bottles of wine, tastes each one and chooses which bottle “the master” will taste. Parker has scored some of their selections a perfect 100 points.

I hate to talk about wonderful wines I’ve tasted that you can’t find in the area. Fortunately, you will find a good selection of Jorge Ordóñez wines at the Wine ConneXtion and at New England Wine & Spirits in Newburyport. Andover Classic Wines had one selection available when I visited, and it is one of my favorites.

Don’t be afraid explore the Spanish wine section the next time you visit your local vintner. Turn the bottles around and look for the Jorge Ordóñez Selections logo on the back. You will not be disappointed. Salute!             

Photo ©Jorge Ordóñez Selections / Fine Estates from Spain Inc.

A few favorites available locally:  

Volver Single Vineyard
100 percent tempranillo grapes
Spanish wine region of La Mancha  
Wine ConneXtion, $14.99

Muga Reserva 
100 percent tempranillo grapes
Spanish wine region of La Rioja
Andover Classic Wines and Wine ConneXtion, about $24.00 

Breca 
100 percent garnacha de Aragón grapes
Spanish wine region of Calatayud
New England Wine & Spirits, $17.99

Tarima 
100 percent monastrell grapes
Spanish wine region of Alicante
New England Wine & Spirits and Wine ConneXtion, only $9.00!

JorgeOrdonezSelections.com

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