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Merrimack Valley Magazine

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A View From the Kitchen – Stress Rides Shotgun

March 20, 2021 by Scott Plath

Prosecco sure. Lambrusco, naturally. But the fizz on my tongue incited by our pinot noir was suspect. We were thrilled to have scored four stools along the outside of the square inside-outside bar of a bustling French brasserie in Naples, Florida. After multiple sips, it took a few of my well-honed cool-guy, upward “Hey bartender” head nods to finally alert busy-him to my urgent dilemma. After all, the foie with port-poached figs was due at any moment. Such fun! His own well-honed “customer is always right” response comforted. With “Let’s do this” face, he plucked a fresh bottle from the center bar and opened it with practiced efficiency. He presented a new glass and poured some sample ounces, deftly twirling his bottle while simultaneously wiping its lip and stepping back at black-vested attention. “Same,” I frowned, opting for my confused puppylike face versus my bougie wine snob frown. I was clueless. With stubborn intention, he repeated the entire action. New glass, new bottle, head cocked: “Sir?” 

Swirl, sip … “Weird. Maybe it’s me?” He grabbed yet another bottle with such commitment that I wondered if he was mocking me just a bit. One in our group suggested the whole case was tainted. I now wondered aloud whether the (extraordinary) Gorgonzola in our (excellent) honey crisp apple-endive-walnut salad was maybe reacting with the wine. Those kooky bleus. I shrugged and decided to stick with it — three bottles deep and simply stoked to be dining again among happy, shiny people.

 

Then, a thing happened. Dude lowered his mask before orating upon minerality in wine.

My “at risk” friends gasped. We noted later with faux offense that our hot and hustling bartenders stopped throughout dinner to share bits of hospitality, each time lowering their masks. “Where the hell are we right now?” we wondered. The patio was full. The bar, full. The dining room, too, while the sidewalk bustled with diners waiting. “There’s no COVID here” we joked throughout multiple restaurant visits in the Sunshine State. “They missed the memo!” The joyful guest and former “prisoner” in me was tickled by the abundant normalcy while the Northern restaurant owner in me cried inside each time. Why can’t we, too, be in denial? Why can’t we, too, calculate risk for ourselves?

We had gone “over the wall,” escaping the confinement of extremely cautionary, cold, and oft-depressing Massachusetts for a grand buffet of alternate reality — the “wild west” of Florida. Having personally never been overly concerned about getting the virus (call me what you will), I indeed got it months ago. It is theorized that I then passed it to family members as we met in my small condo and projected our restaurant group “decision tree” on my TV — analyzing worst- to best-case scenarios. We all promptly quarantined, suffered mild flu symptoms and mostly recovered in days. I was relieved by both getting it and getting over it — and that my loved ones did, too, as we padded the growing numbers of those who went from “positive” to recovered. I hopped a flight weeks later feeling liberated, excited, guilty and burdened with business no better off and eternally fearing the worst — be it someone becoming ill, another unaffordable repair bill, or another press conference, each one a kick in our industry ass.

At first, it felt wrong to leave our struggling teams behind, perpetually perplexed as to what else we could be doing to positively influence fractional, static sales. In my heart, the answer had been confirmed over the past year. Very little. And trust me, the stress rides shotgun — chattering morning, noon and night. There is no true escape. Conversely, the potential for discovery travels, too. The reality is, while working from Florida the comfort of warmth and a rogue community (call it what you wish) proved a welcome breather when all the tossing and turning, reading, researching, emailing, zooming, and staring into the sunny abyss came to the end of the day. Freedom rings. 

When I shared my observations on our Facebook pages, I inspired dissension — the best kind, as I am mostly connected to intelligent, thoughtful and respectful “friends.” (Whom I pray are avoiding the absolute poisoning of our society by Facebook’s pursuit of profit. A column for another day.*) I asked how was it that per capita, “the numbers” in living-life Florida were reportedly better than locked-down Massachusetts. Comments followed. “Density,” one friend theorized. “That’s bullshit,” dropped another. “Florida fudges their numbers.” “They test less.” “How does anyone know that Florida isn’t reporting true numbers?” And so it went. This debate rages on because there is limited absolute truth — we all have varied core values and beliefs while the science continuously evolves. Yes, we should protect one another. And yes, we should have control over our own fate. (And reporting false numbers should face harsh penalties!) Personally, I am reminded of a Virginia Woolf quote from a favorite movie scene: “This is my right; it is the right of every human being. I choose not the suffocating anesthetic of the suburbs, but the violent jolt of the Capital, that is my choice.” Here is wishing good luck and good health to both the safekeepers and the risk takers, and sunnier days ahead for us all.  

*I recommend “The Social Dilemma” on Netflix — an eye-opening portrayal of how social media is negatively impacting our society.

Filed Under: Food & Drink Tagged With: COVID, Debate, Dining, Facebook, florida, Restaurant, Scott Plath, Stress

The 495 – This Week’s Episode – Caroline Jolliffe

February 17, 2021 by Katie DeRosa

Hungry? Join us this week on The 495 as we sit down with restaurateur Caroline Jolliffe, whose just-opened Newburyport restaurant The Joy Nest promises live jazz, boozy cocktails and a classic speakeasy environment. Click here to listen!

 

 

Filed Under: Community Tagged With: 495 Podcast, Caroline Jolliffe, Merrimack Valley, newburyport, Restaurant, The 495, The 495 podcast, The Joy Nest

Good Eats – Vera Ristorante

January 9, 2021 by Dean Johnson

Pity poor Vera. This new, casually upscale Italian eatery is run by folks with impressive Boston and New York credentials and has an ideal location, smack on Market Square in downtown Newburyport.

But starting a new restaurant in this environment? A case could be made that the restaurant/hospitality industry has been devastated by COVID-19 more than any other. 

On the other hand … maybe save that pity and instead make arrangements to visit as soon as your personal circumstances allow. In a seaside city known for its impressive slew of good restaurants, Vera is already near the top of that list.

There is plenty of outdoor dining at Vera, in front, on the side, and even in the back of the place — all good people-watching locations. My wife and I were happy to take advantage of that seating during a spate of weird but welcome 70-degree days in November.

 

Vera’s interior is a single room dominated by a central bar. It’s cozy — not always a welcome attribute these days. But bar seating was limited and plexiglass dividers had been set up as barriers between many of the tables.

The menu offers six entrees — halibut ($36), chicken ($26), a bone-in pork chop ($29), the house burger ($20), an 8-ounce filet mignon ($44), and a 12-ounce rib-eye ($42) — in addition to pastas and pizzas. 

We suspected we were in for a good night when both starters earned high marks. The $18 polipetti (grilled baby octopus) was prepared well and served with tomatoes, fingerling potatoes, a smart aioli, and fennel pollen. It made me consider never again ordering simple fried calamari.

The burrata ($15) was a visually pleasing dish: little prosciutto di parma tents served with the rich, creamy Italian cheese, all accented with some basil oil and sea salt.

Maybe it’s because we were so, uh, “restaurant starved,” but the Bolognese ($18/$24) featured a tagliatelle in a richly herbed meat sauce that seemed absolutely silky — we ate slowly to savor the experience.

 

Ordering the rib-eye inspired a quick travel flashback. Years ago, my wife and I were dining out in the Tuscan town of Montecatini, and we noticed patrons at a nearby table enjoying steaks that appeared to be straight out of a Flintstones cartoon — huge cuts that seemed beyond anything a cow or bull could offer. And they were so rare it would not have surprised me if the kitchen staff had just waved them over the grill before serving. 

I joked with my waiter, who was Italian, that though I know I should order the rib-eye rare, I opted for medium rare … the American version of medium rare. He laughed and replied, “There is nothing wrong with ordering a rare steak.”

That’s a conversation for another day.

It’s reasonable to expect a $42 steak to be so good that it all but takes you to another place when you taste it. The beef arrived presliced and was medium-rare perfection. I can’t recall the last time I thought of a steak as almost buttery, but this one qualified. Temperature correct and packed with flavor, it was a terrific entree, served with some arugula and tomato.

Our desserts, a panna cotta ($9) and chocolate crema ($9), were the “disappointments” of the evening; both were quite good, but they didn’t quite match the lofty standards of everything else.

Though we were told they were understaffed that night, no fewer than four people visited our table to make sure we were happy during the course of our delightful dinner. 

We were. Very. Serving us a memorable dinner under the daunting circumstances most restaurants are facing these days was no small feat. I’m already looking forward to visiting Vera again, when the weather … or vaccines … cooperate.   

 

Vera Ristorante
Newburyport, Mass.

(978) 358-7741
VeraRistorante.com

Kitchen hours:
Tuesday-Thursday, 4 p.m. to 9 p.m.
Friday and Saturday, 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. 

Filed Under: Food & Drink Tagged With: eatery, goodeats, Italian, newburyport, Restaurant, review, Ristorante, Vera

A View from the Kitchen – Bullethead’s Last Stand

January 5, 2021 by Scott Plath

Some years ago, a study conducted by a leading educator in the Bronx determined that “wherewithal” quotient is a leading predictor of individual success. Beyond IQ and such, the likelihood to prevail over life’s adverse conditions most belongs to those who dust themselves off and try again.

Two decades earlier and just north, as an incoming freshman I was welcomed to the high school bus by senior Dominick DiBenedetto. “Nice hat, Bullethead,” initiated an eternity of verbal abuse. I planned regularly for the day that his mates would elevate the harassment beyond shooting rubber bands at my head from the back seats. Ultimately, they would call me by my name.

Life’s challenges are presented and overcome. Take, for example, my first bully-boss, Big John. “BJ” actually taught me how not to treat staff. Years later the dean of the UMass hospitality program rejected my plea to tailor a targeted curriculum toward ownership. Graduation was followed by restaurant gigs in which my potential went unrewarded. Seven long years later I opted to open our own restaurant. 

How ’bout them apples?

 

Cobblestones’ legacy began in June 1994 during a recession. Hours before our grand opening, the electricity blacked out, leaving us with no lights, soda and beer systems, or kitchen hoods. “Light all candles, go buy bottles, no grill food.” I directed our new staff to stay cool, despite no air conditioning and 200 expected guests. “If you can keep your head while all those around you …”

Back then, a sage family member suggested I bypass a friend as general manager who insisted on owning equity. “He’s trying to leverage your insecurity. You don’t need him.” I hired another. When a precious $2,000 went missing, she claimed to have needed a nap: “I must have forgotten to lock the safe.” (And, apparently, the office door). Number three lost his license to drive. Next up.

Triumph and disaster, fires and floods would follow. We launched Moonstones in Chelmsford, Mass., in 2007, as the good times rolled. Months later our existence was threatened by the Great Recession. That same mentor urged “… razor cuts like a surgeon.” We went on the offensive. Avoiding pay cuts, we added a seventh business day, Sunday brunch, increased portions and comfort food options while “trimming fat.” We flexed and prevailed stronger. The economy ebbs and flows, compounded by unrelenting financial challenges to our industry too great to list. 

But now, this here.

With every past trial there has been strategy atop hope. Confidence, adrenaline, defiance, solutions. Yet never have we stared down such widespread trepidation. We combat a microscopic menace that hunts from the air we breathe. We blindly stab it with our steely knives, no cuts made. Those in charge respond by further attacking our livelihoods as they, too, struggle for answers. Too often officials don’t know how to say they don’t know. “The numbers” go up, then down, then up. Our operating hours are cut. Apparently the virus thrives after 10 p.m. Will we be forced to close again? How will we return sales back above expenses as our debt mounts?

We’ve purchased hospital-grade air filters, table dividers, sanitizer by the gallons, masks upon masks — attempting anything to diminish significant loss. We prayed for more government support to close more gap. It seems that equipment breaks down more frequently than “the before times.” We do without. “Use the other computer terminals,” we say. “For now,” we say. Cooks do dishes to maintain full-time hours. Managers mop bathrooms while accepting pay cuts. Servers now pool tips to foster team and togetherness. We promote cautiously, as not to appear dismissive, but desperate for those who are willing and able to sustain us while the news irresponsibly casts all restaurants as “high risk.” Being conflicted is now a permanent state.

This here goes well beyond sales and expenses. Our decisions often weigh threat — our personnel and professional health intertwined. A staff member responsibly “calls in sick” after a friend tested positive. We are grateful, concerned and, now, shorthanded. If we choose to shut down, we put dozens of our people out of work. Balancing quality operations with safety, morale, ethics and budget has never been more fragile. 

 

In case of emergency, we are told on flights to first put on our own oxygen masks before assisting others. We are taught to protect the weak, but also that the strong survive. This here is Darwinian. Who is right? Who has the right? Whose survival is weighted how?

 

The uncomfortable solace of childhood lessons reminds: “There is always someone worse off.” We recognize our inability “to breathe” is different from those who’ve fallen ill. Nevertheless, we are crushed that our businesses, finances, dreams, ability to support others, and over 30 years of sacrifice and investment are at risk.  

Unlike many others, we are unable to quarantine. We struggle for that next eureka moment, increasingly demoralized by futility — denial itself having an expiration date. I wish that a still mind and sleeping later these days was a good thing. It is not. It reeks of powerlessness — an unfamiliar feeling.  We promote positivity, expand takeout, add fees and forego linen. Touchless technology? Seat outside in winter? We mine for strategies to sustain our people to the other side of this here — as we shed a tear each time a friend permanently shutters their restaurant. And another one.

Months ago, guess-who quipped: “There is no greater indicator of economic woe than when you open a restaurant.” My uncle’s tongue-in-cheek observation humored me, sadly. Concurrent with this perpetual pandemic, we’ve opened Stones #1 Social in Nashua, N.H. — our “brand of the future.” One of my strong, beautiful, incredible and courageous daughters, fighting alongside us, recently emailed a humble strategic suggestion. Acutely aware that my very own children are also assuming risk in our daily struggle, this much I know — I’d much rather be fists raised and nose to nose with Dominick once again.

 She then consoled: “Are we having fun yet?”  

 

Scott Plath, along with his wife Kathleen, owns Cobblestones of Lowell, moonstones, in Chelmsford, Mass., and Stones Social in Nashua, New Hampshire. Scott possesses a deep well of humorous and insightful stories, which are available here. >>>

Filed Under: Community, Food & Drink Tagged With: bully, challenge, COVID, Dining, dreams, legacy, Restaurant

A View from the Kitchen – Hysteria Sets In

November 6, 2020 by Scott Plath

Clutching a warm cider while snug in my favorite patio sweater, I thought back to mopping mid-August off my brow, sweltering on a park bench with my friend, outside our apartments. We watched befuddled through the rippling haze of the parking lot while neighbor folk shuffled along and alone, toting trash one way, groceries the other, steamy breathing with their masks still on. Was it me? Early-warning hallucinations before a heat stroke?

Do you know those dreams when you sit up relieved to be safe in the bed, goofy smiling to have not actually been buck naked at a Goo Goo Dolls concert? The one where you’re trying to covertly blend into the bouncing throng, preferring to join the double fist-pumping in the air like you just don’t care, yet self-conscious about how unsettling all that extra personal bounce might be. Cool-cat scanning the arena for your missing pants, you’re further fuddled by the row of rowdy, matchy-matchy dancing farm animals, oddly well-coordinated in light blue flannel pajamas — a curious choice given how hot that must be for the sheep! 

You know. That one. And upon waking, ashamed. 

The Goo Goo Dolls? Seriously?

Well, if you’re like me — and Lord help you if you are — 2020 folks? 

 

Do you keep waiting to snap out of this mess? To awaken and blink, blink away sleepy cobwebs: “What the … Whoa. That. Was. Bizarre.” 

Back on our sticky bench, bemused by the zombie-like apocalypse, she was sporting hobo-chic attire of gloriously baggy, yellow designer sweatpants. I gazed longingly and she read my Dr. Seuss-like simple mind: “I haven’t worn hard pants in three months, yo.” 

I further ogled her sleeveless “Straight Outta Lowell” matching top, thinking how clever, the whole co-opting of Compton and all — and then dreamily drifted into wondering whether this popular slogan has actually been a financial success. You see, I have this relentless fixation on inspiring the next ubiquitous T-shirt cliche leading to vast riches and a personal pleasure craft … “Have a nice day,” “I heart NY,” “Vote for Pedro.” I digress.

It was apparently her turn to stare. “What?” I said. “What, you.” she said. “Is the heat making you delirious? What’s wrong with my apparel?” (I’m fairly certain she actually said “apparel.”) I wanted to hug her in affirmation: “Are you joking? I’m just jealous.”

Obviously I didn’t, as the no-hugging rule was still in effect. 

But also, “Just say no” to sweaty hugs really anytime, ever. 

“Elbows.” “Boom.”

And how is it that we are not all wearing reversible green or red buttons to declare personal comfort levels, thereby avoiding the whole dancy-lean, put your right foot in, take your right foot out, hug or handshake insecurity? Wouldn’t a little help be nice? Red? “Hello. My name is: Back the F up.”

When it comes to clothes, I embrace the mantra that less is more. Whenever I come out of our redbrick building, my face jock comes off in a flash. I gasp the fresh air as though I had breaststroked underwater all the way from the top floor. Flip-flops, no socks? All day if I had the feet. When getting ready for a special event, I whine to my wife, hand on hip like a 5-year-old: “But I don’t wanna wear a blazer.” And the necktie? Just think about how perverse that even sounds. Enduring puritanical madness, I say. Sure, let’s push that knot tight up to my neck, then maybe we go find us a witch! Fun times.

I looked down at my sexy cargo shorts (and those troubling toes) dismayed that my people don’t embrace billowy Aladdin-like white linen pants with matching dashiki as the heat-beating threads of other lands. A Moroccan kaftan? Yes I can. When Grammy wears a muumuu, I shout, let it breathe Ma! 

Still shaken by the sweaty scenes of earlier, I described the ordeal to my more rational daughters over dinner. Mumbling my ultimate fear — that if people fret over setting their faces free in a hella hot and steamy lot, will our restaurants ever be full again? 

Are the days gone of high-fiving strangers at the bar and spit-shouting into unsuspecting faces: “Hell yeah Brady … FIRST DOWN!” Have we forsaken raucous  off-key rounds of “Happy Birthday to You” over a glowing cake? They consoled that I was simply witnessing “… habit-forming behavior” and “It’s becoming normalized, Dad …” 

Their voices faded as the specter of this restaurant career coming to an end twirled in my brain, and in the very next instant whether “Duck! He’s blowing out the candles!” holds potential to be my T-shirt — the one I’d be modeling for the maiden voyage of our new yacht, the S.S. Bare Bottom Dreams. Bye-bye burgers and fries, hello blue skies and “No mask required!”  

 

Scott Plath, along with his wife Kathleen, owns Cobblestones of Lowell, moonstones, in Chelmsford, Mass., and Stones Social in Nashua, New Hampshire. Scott possesses a deep well of humorous and insightful stories, which are available here. >>>

Filed Under: Community, Food & Drink Tagged With: 2020, Dining, dreams, hysteria, Restaurant, t-shirt

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COBBLESTONES Restaurant & Bar

91 Dutton Street, Lowell, MA 01852
Website
Directions
(978) 970-2282
Read More →

COBBLESTONES Restaurant & Bar

A historic landmark, COBBLESTONES boasts excellent dining and hospitality amongst magnificent architecture and ambiance. Widely known for incredible hand cut steaks, burgers, local seafood and oysters on the 1/2 shell, 25 years worth of Chef created specialties, classic American cocktails and dozens of locally crafted beers. Equally suited for casual tavern fare or special private dining celebrations. "A must" in the Merrimack Valley. Kitchen Hours: Mon.–Sun. 12pm-11pm. (Award winning Sunday Brunch @ 10:15am). Bar until midnight Fri. & Sat. 91 Dutton Street / Lowell, Mass. / (978) 970-2282 / CobblestonesOfLowell.com
Address
91 Dutton Street, Lowell, MA 01852
Website
Directions
(978) 970-2282
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