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Merrimack Valley Magazine

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Wine Notes – Red, White and Blue

July 4, 2020 by Steven Goddu

American Wines for Summertime

Countrymen … and women … with Independence Day upon us and barbecue season in our midst, it’s time we take action! We must seek out the best and most interesting wine parings to share with friends and family who we hope will serve us green vegetables, smoky ribs, crispy chicken and grilled striped bass.

Barbecue season presents interesting challenges for wine lovers, as pairings are difficult to find for savory, smoky and spicy flavors. In the end, we don’t want to succumb to drinking Bud Light. And this summer we face another challenge, as wine stores haven’t been allowed to offer tastings, making it a lot harder to get a feel for what we want. For assistance, I turned to an expert — Andrea Lewis of Andover Classic Wines — who helped me discover this year’s best All-American red, white and blue wine selections. 

Red wine at a barbecue must be able to pair with burgers, hot dogs and, in the case of this author, my famous barbecue chicken glazed with sweet and spicy sauce. To make these pairings work, you need to stay away from wines that have high tannins, like malbec and cabernet sauvignon. These wines just don’t taste good with ketchup and mustard. The tannins conflict with the sweet flavors, so you’ll be reaching for a beer after your first sip.

 

Instead, find a wine that allows the fruit to shine through and has a smooth mouthfeel. Seek out zinfandel, syrah or grenache grapes to fill this slot. A nice example is “Folie à Deux,” which draws its name from a French expression meaning “a madness shared by two.” An American zinfandel produced in the Dry Creek Valley of Sonoma County, California, it presents a rich, full-bodied expression of the zinfandel grape — the notes of black cherry, mocha and strawberry jam will have you reaching for more. It’s modestly priced, so bring two bottles to share with your friends.

If you are prepared to spend a little extra cash, treat yourself to a bottle of Unshackled’s California red blend. The winemakers at The Prisoner Wine Co. in Oakville, California, have pulled out all the stops with this crazy offering. They have sourced zinfandel, malbec, petite sirah, syrah and grenache grapes from Monterey, San Benito, Paso Robles, Lodi, Sonoma’s Dry Creek, Mendocino’s Redwood Valley and Lake County California. On the back label, you will see the words “Freedom Is a State of Mind” at the top. Their “Freedom to Blend” has been taken to the extreme, producing a wine of unshackled creativity that you should surely experience. 

It’s hard to believe, but some people serve a lot of vegetables at a barbecue, and you may be presented with a fresh arugula salad or grilled artichokes. Not just any wine will work with these bitter greens, but you can count on viognier (“vee-own-yay”) to fill this slot. Andrea suggested the Illahe (“Ill-uh-hee”) viognier from Willamette Valley, Oregon. Aged in stainless steel with no malolactic fermentation, the smooth acidity of this wine will shine through the strongest tasting vegetables. It offers notes of apricot, nectarine and kiwi, and will be appealing to those who typically drink chardonnay.

As I’m sticking with American-made products, I’ll skip over my favorite white wine, a sauvignon blanc from Marlborough region of New Zealand, and turn instead to the Honig Vineyard & Winery in Rutherford, California. This American sauvignon blanc has the full and flowery bouquet that I expect from this varietal. Being aged in stainless steel tanks, it also presents with the crisp flavors of peaches, lemons and white grapefruit without that buttery vanilla oak taste that torments me in California chardonnay. This is your choice to pair with striped bass, salmon or shrimp.

To complete our patriotic wine selection, plan a trip to New Hampshire to pick up a bottle of Hermit Woods Petite Blue, which is made in Meredith. This award-winning blueberry wine will remind your wine-loving friends that good wine can be made from fruit other than grapes. A full pound of wild Maine blueberries goes into each bottle of this unique wine. Crisp and well balanced, it is totally dry, unlike most fruit wines. It is aged in stainless steel and is my favorite to enjoy with smoked ribs. 

I hope your Independence Day is filled with red, white and blue wine, but please don’t drink any of these selections from a red plastic cup. Salute!  

Filed Under: Food & Drink Tagged With: american, AndoverClassicWines, barbecue, July4th, Summer, Wine, winenotes

2019 MVMA Winners – Wine & Dine (Part 1)

July 23, 2019 by Merrimack Valley Magazine Leave a Comment

We are happy to present the winners of the 2019 Merrimack Valley Magazine Awards. This spring, the top picks in all categories were chosen by our readers via our online voting platform. Thank you to everyone who took the time to vote and congratulations to all the winners.

American
Burtons Grill & Bar
Burton’s Grill is the place to go for cuisine from the traditional to the innovative. Perfect for power lunches, after-work socializing and fine wine, Burton’s offers paleo, vegetarian and gluten-free options as well as classic American cuisine. Takeout is always available and several locations feature seasonal outdoor patios.
North Andover, Peabody, Burlington, Westford and Hingham, Mass.; Nashua, N.H.
BurtonsGrill.com

Asian
Fusion House Restaurant
The emphasis in on fusion at this cozy Methuen eatery. The scope of the dishes is wide: the many choices include sushi, pad thai, and Polynesian-style Chinese favorites. Wash it all down with one of their classic cocktails.
301 Merrimack St.  |  Methuen, Mass.
FusionHouseRestaurant.com

Pastry Shops/Bakery
Purple Carrot Bread Company
In April 2018, Purple Carrot Bread Co. opened its doors as a cafe and eatery on Merrimack Street in downtown Lowell. Every item on the menu is made from scratch, from hearty stews to salad dressings and condiments. Rustic breads are the heart of Purple Carrot’s menu: Country Blonde, Kalamata olive, rosemary and garlic ciabatta are among the more popular offerings.
107 Merrimack St.  |  Lowell, Mass.
PurpleCarrotBreadCo.com

Coffee Shops & Cafes
Brew’d Awakening Coffeehaus
With free WiFi, compostable cups, outdoor seating and custom-roasted beans, what more could you ask for in a local coffee shop? Find all this and more at Brew’d Awakening Coffeehaus. Offering Equal Exchange fair trade coffees and three in-house roasts, Brew’d Awakening is a great place to do some work, chat with friends or just sit and sip.
61 Market St.  |  Lowell, Mass.
BrewdAwakening.com 

Italian
Tuscan Kitchen
Inspired by owner Joe Faro’s travels throughout Italy, Tuscan Kitchen’s authentic Italian cuisine makes you feel as though you’ve stepped right into the boot. Tuck into a Fichi pizza with figs, rosemary, burrata and prosciutto, or go for the traditional rigatoni alla Bolognese. Want something lighter? They also offer delicious salads and meat dishes.
Burlington, Mass.; Salem, N.H.
TuscanBrands.com/Kitchen

Irish Pub
The Irish Cottage
The Irish Cottage bills itself as Methuen’s first authentic Irish restaurant and pub and features great food, drinks and music, all served up with a heaping of traditional Irish atmosphere. Enjoy watching sporting events on their numerous TVS while you chow down on classics such as corned beef and cabbage, cottage pie and Guinness beef stew. Every Saturday night at 7 p.m., The Irish Cottage features live Irish music.
17 Branch St.  |  Methuen, Mass.
TheIrishCottagePub.com

Mexican
Cafe Azteca
Ready for some authentic Mexican food? Look no further than Cafe Azteca. The restaurant’s owners, the Guerrero family, draw inspiration from their annual trips to visit family in Mexico, bringing back new recipes and colorful Mexican decor. Enjoy their delicious selection of margaritas while awaiting your tamales and tostadas.
180 Common St.  |  Lawrence, Mass.
Cafe-Azteca.com

Middle Eastern
Jocelyn’s Mediterranean Restaurant & Lounge
The lamb, kafta and kibbee dishes make this Salem eatery a carnivore’s paradise. Fear not, herbivores — the vegetarian combo appetizer plate is so packed with freshness and flavor that you’ll forget it’s healthy. Jocelyn’s offers Lebanese and American food, a full-service bar and even a martini lounge.
355 South Broadway  |  Salem, N.H.
JocelynsRestaurant.com

Pizza
Tripoli Bakery
It all started with Italian breads and pastries. Luckily for us, in 1944 the Zappala family started making pizza, and one of the best pizzerias around was born. Now you can enjoy beach pizza and pick up some traditional Italian cookies and cannoli for later. Tripoli also offers specialty cakes and their signature fresh breads.
Lawrence, North Andover, Methuen, Salisbury, Mass.; Seabrook, N.H.
TripoliBakery.com

 

 

 

Stop by next week for the winners in the second half of our ‘Wine & Dine’ category.

The 2019 MVMAs are sponsored by:

Filed Under: Food & Drink, MVMA Tagged With: 2019, 2019MVMAs, american, asian, bakery, Brew’d Awakening Coffeehaus, Burtons Grill and Bar, Cafe Azteca, Coffee Shops & Cafes, Food, Fusion House Restaurant, Good Eats, Irish Pub, Italian, Jocelyn's Mediterranean Restaurant and Lounge, Merrimack Valley Magazine Awards, Mexican, Middle Eastern, MVMAs, Pastry Shops, Piza, Purple Carrot Bread Company, The Irish Cottage, Tripoli Bakery, Tuscan Kitchen, Wine and Dine

You Say You Want a Revolution

July 6, 2019 by Kim Whiting Leave a Comment

Exeter’s American Independence Museum Keeps the Past Alive

The American Independence Museum, nestled among the shops in downtown Exeter, N.H., reopened for its 29th season on May 1, but a lot of people still don’t know it’s there, says Executive Director Emma Bray. “We’re frequently referred to as a hidden gem. And I feel like a lot of what we’re trying to do as a staff is to become a little less hidden.”

Bray joined the museum two years ago after moving back to the area. “It piqued my interest because they’re a small museum with a small staff, but they were doing really exciting things,” she says.

The museum, which is open Tuesday through Saturday from May 1 through November, has about 5,500 visitors a year and hosts several community events, but the Traveling Trunk Program, which was launched two years, is enabling the museum to reach far beyond Greater Exeter. In the program, the museum sends a free trunk of replica items from the Colonial era to schools and libraries across the country, along with a lesson plan. Students can touch, hold and wear its contents for up to a month. “What’s great about the trunk is it can go all across the country,” Bray says. “It’s going to California and Florida and places that don’t have that same Colonial history that we do.” According to Bray, the program has become wildly popular. “In 2019, it’s far exceeded our expectations,” she says. “We’re now booking into 2020.” 

Executive Director Emma Stratton Bray (above) has worked to boost the profile of the American Independence Museum, which is often thought of as a hidden gem. To that end, the work of history performers such as Mike Welch (top of page) encourages young people to experience a direct connection with our past. Photos by Kevin Harkins.

To understand how the museum came to be, a brief history lesson is helpful. On the evening of July 4, 1776, an estimated 200 unsigned copies of the Declaration of Independence were printed by John Dunlap in Philadelphia and distributed on horseback throughout the 13 colonies to spread the word of their independence from British rule. Only 26 copies, now known as the Dunlap Broadside for the large, one-sided paper it was printed on are known to still exist, including one at the American Independence Museum. 

“It was really the importance of that document that spearheaded the effort to become a museum,” Bray says. The document was discovered in the 1980s in Exeter’s historic Ladd-Gilman House, then privately owned by The Society of the Cincinnati, the oldest patriotic organization in the country. The founders of the society, which was established in 1783, tasked their descendants with preserving the memory of the sacrifices that made American independence a reality. 

The museum has expanded its educational outreach programs in ways meant to make history feel vital to newer generations. Photo by Kevin Harkins.

Built around 1721, the Ladd-Gilman House itself has a rich history, having served as the State Treasury and the governor’s mansion when Exeter was New Hampshire’s capital, and having housed Nicholas Gilman, one of the original signers of U.S. Constitution. 

It’s fitting that this beautifully preserved building was opened to the public in 1991 as a museum. With a particular focus on New Hampshire’s role in American independence, the museum boasts a collection of 3,000 objects related to the Colonial era and the Revolutionary War. Among the items on display are two drafts of the United States Constitution, an 18th century purple heart and a collection of old money. “I love some of the Colonial currency we have here,” Bray says. “Back then, each state printed their own money. You’d have to exchange it as you traveled from state to state.” Like today’s money, Bray says, each piece is its own work of art, full of details and symbolism.

On July 16, 1776, the original Dunlap Broadside arrived in Exeter by horseback. To mark the occasion, an annual American Independence Festival is hosted by the museum in downtown Exeter, complete with reenactments of that historic day’s events. The Declaration of Independence is read in the town square by a descendent of Nicholas Gilman, a battle is reenacted between the British and the Patriot militia, and visitors can interact with historical interpreters and witness Colonial life firsthand. Food trucks, a concert and fireworks round out the day’s events. Independence Ale, made exclusively for this event by Redhook Brewery, will be served in the historic Folsom Tavern that shares the museum’s campus. 

The museum’s collection includes more than 3,000 objects, including vintage games, currency and firearms, as well one of only 26 known surviving Dunlop Broadsides (left). The Dunlop Broadsides are reproductions of the Declaration of Independence printed on July 4, 1776. The museum also houses a 1789 draft of the U.S. Constitution. Photos by Kevin Harkins.

The tavern was built in 1775 and now provides space for the museum to hold events year-round, including Revolutionary Story Time! for preschoolers and Bray’s personal favorite event, Beer for History. “We bring in local brewers and we do trivia, and it’s just wonderful to see the tavern come to life in the evening in Exeter in the way it was intended,” Bray says. “It was meant to be a community gathering space, and to be able to bring that intention back to the building is wonderful.” Bray says the Beer for History series has gained in popularity over the past couple of years. “The community here is so supportive and so lovely and excited to be in the building,” she says. “I always end up having really great conversations.”

According to Bray, half of the museum’s visitors are students on school field trips, and the rest are members of tour groups and travelers who make the small detour off the highway before continuing to their destinations. “It’s in a great location if you’re going up Interstate 95 to the lakes or the mountains,” Bray says. “Downtown Exeter is beautiful. It’s a great spot to be in, and it’s a wonderful community.”   

American Independence Museum
Exeter, N.H.
(603) 772-2622
IndependenceMuseum.org

Filed Under: Community Tagged With: american, Exeter, hiddengem, history, Independence, Museum

La Survivance: Franco-American Culture in the Merrimack Valley

June 10, 2016 by Emilie-Noelle Provost Leave a Comment

The Merrimack River flows through downtown Haverhill, at times veering dangerously close to buildings and parked cars. Wide and swift, the river’s vast hydropower drew factory owners to the city in the 19th century, much as it lured them to its industrial-age Merrimack Valley sisters, Lowell, Lawrence, Nashua and Manchester. [Editor’s note: This article originally appeared in the May/June 2013 issue of mvm.]

As in other parts of New England where manufacturing flourished, many of those who came to work in the Valley’s hulking red-brick mills were Quebecois. Farmers and laborers, they emigrated from Canada by the thousands from the mid-19th to the early 20th centuries, seeking to improve their fortunes. They built schools and churches, launched businesses and credit unions, newspapers and social clubs, transforming entire neighborhoods into “Little Canadas,” where French was spoken in homes and on the streets.

My ancestors were among those Quebecois immigrants. My great-great-grandparents were married in Haverhill in 1891. My great-grandmother was born in a house on Hilldale Avenue there. Like thousands of other Franco-American families in New England, mine was French-speaking well into the 20th century. Unfortunately, by the time this fifth-generation Franco-American and many others of my age group came along, our ethnic identities had been largely wiped clean by the forces of Americanization. Many of us had never heard of the Feast of St. Jean-Baptiste or eaten a tourtiere. And with rare exception, there were few people left to tell us from where or from whom we’d come.

 

Que S’est-il Passé? What Ever Happened to the French? 

For generations, Franco-Americans were notorious for resisting assimilation into American society. They lived in close-knit neighborhoods and patronized Franco-owned businesses. As conservative Catholics, many equated the French language with their religion and feared that losing it would result in their children losing their faith. Often discriminated against, they established their own credit unions in order to open bank accounts and acquire loans, largely avoiding contact with mainstream society.

In a 1942 letter to then-Canadian Prime Minister Mackenzie King, President Franklin Delano Roosevelt wrote about the Franco-American immigrants living in his boyhood summer home of New Bedford, saying,“I can still remember that the old generation shook their heads and used to say, ‘this is a new element which will never be assimilated. We are assimilating the Irish but these Quebec people won’t even speak English. Their bodies are here but their hearts and minds are in Quebec.’ ” 

It might have taken the Franco-Americans a few generations longer than other immigrants of the day, but the same ambition that led them to New England’s factories eventually convinced many that speaking French was a hindrance to their upward mobility. Some even did away with their cultural traditions, Anglicizing the spelling and/or pronunciations of their names.

Adrien Bisson, a photographer and Westford resident, is a fourth-generation Franco-American who experienced this firsthand. “Three of my grandparents were from Quebec and the fourth was born in Berlin, N.H., and was very much a francophone,” he says. “My father was bilingual, but my parents were very concerned that the Catholic school I would be going to would have francophone nuns, because they didn’t want me to have an accent.”

Through the decades, the closing of French churches, social clubs and parochial schools, and the gradual loss of Franco neighborhoods, further chipped away at the culture in the Merrimack Valley and elsewhere.

A historic map of Lowell’s Little Canada, courtesy of Henri Marchand.

Les Survivants: The Guardians of Franco-American Culture

Not all of the Merrimack Valley’s Franco-Americans were so quick to let go of their culture. Many worked tirelessly to preserve and celebrate what remained of it. Because of them, the region’s Franco-American heritage has persevered in some ways, albeit mostly out of view of the general population.

Retired French teacher and Lowell resident Roger Lacerte owns La Librairie Populaire, a French language bookstore on Orange Street in Manchester, N.H. Lacerte, who continues to work as a French translator and as the host of a French language radio program on Manchester’s WFEA, opened the store in 1962 to serve the city’s Franco population, which remains the Merrimack Valley’s largest and best preserved.

“We sell everything from books from Quebec and France to textbooks and French translations of American classics,” Lacerte says. “There are still people in Manchester who speak French, though many of our customers now come from French-speaking countries other than Canada.”

In 1970, after urban renewal claimed most of Lowell’s Little Canada, the Franco-American Day Committee was formed by members of the community who were concerned that the loss of their neighborhoods would also mean losing their culture and traditions. The committee created Lowell’s annual Franco-American Festival Week, which is held in late June to coincide with St. Jean-Baptiste Day, Quebec’s national holiday on June 24. Festival events include a French-language Mass in honor of the saint, a traditional ham and bean supper, and live Quebecois music.

Kevin Roy, a fourth-generation Franco-American from Billerica, has been the Franco-American Day Committee’s president since 2011. At 45, Roy is the committee’s youngest member. He is one of only three committee presidents who doesn’t speak French.

“The average age [of committee members] is in the 70s,” Roy says. “We’re struggling to keep the group alive, to find ways to interest younger people and make it new again. We need to think beyond language and history and think about what makes us French.”

Lowell resident Roger Lacerte, a retired French teacher who still works as a French translator, in his French language bookstore, La Librairie Populaire, in Manchester, N.H. Photo by Adrien Bisson.

Founded in 1990, the Franco-American Centre, on the campus of St. Anselm College in Manchester, N.H., was created to promote French heritage in the Merrimack Valley. It offers an array of cultural events throughout the year, but its main mission is to teach and preserve the French language. The center offers a number of French classes for kids and adults, as well as the popular Prêt-à-parler, an informal monthly class that provides a setting for participants to drop in for casual French conversation.

John Tousignant, a businessman who specializes in U.S.-Canadian relations and a former French teacher, has been the centre’s executive director since January.

“We take language learning and make it meaningful to the community,” Tousignant says. “Our students are our future.”

The diverse student population at Ste Jeanne d’Arc School — one of three remaining French parochial grammar schools in Lowell — includes few Francos these days. Keeping true to its origins, however, the school remains a center of French culture in the city.

“We’re the only school that offers a French language program K through eight,” says Monique Letendre, Jeanne d’Arc’s assistant principal. “One of the French traditions that’s alive and well here is Mardi Gras. The kids get to dress up in crazy costumes and eat candy all day.”

L’Avenir: The Future of Franco-American Ethnic Identity

The declining participation of an aging Franco population in cultural events, and the fact that most Franco cultural institutions remain isolated from one another, raises questions about the future of the culture and creates uncertainties about the ethnic identities of future generations.

“We aren’t known to ourselves, or to others,” says Robert Perreault of Manchester, N.H., an author, French professor at St. Anselm College, and native French speaker. “We’re not French. We’re not Canadian. We are our own people. We can have a cultural identity if we’re willing to do something about it.”

Paul Marion, executive director of UMass Lowell’s Center for Arts & Ideas, an author and publisher and a fourth-generation Franco-American, has dedicated much of his career to maintaining and promoting Franco culture, most notably the writings of the Valley’s most legendary Franco-American, Jack Kerouac.

“We don’t live the way my parents did,” Marion says. “If we want [Franco culture] to be around for our kids, we have to make it our business to celebrate it. … We must make an attempt to form a new cultural identity where we can be ‘French-Canadian Americans,’ because we’re different from our ancestors. We have to make our culture fit into contemporary life.”

 

Left: The Franco-American Monument in front of Lowell City Hall was dedicated on St. Jean Baptiste Day (June 24) in 1974 to commemorate the Franco-American people whose labor helped build the city. Right: Angela Casaubon, a kindergarten teacher at Ste Jeanne d’Arc School in Lowell, helps Jasmine Kungu, 6, with her mask during the school’s Mardi Gras celebration.

Some Franco-Americans have reconnected with their heritage by acknowledging Quebec as a cultural homeland. Bisson, the photographer, learned French in his 40s as a way to rediscover his heritage. He visited Quebec twice as part of a French language immersion program. “I went to Quebec for two weeks each time and took classes. … It really was a great experience … the Quebec our grandparents remembered is not today’s Quebec. The two cities [Montreal and Quebec City] are very cosmopolitan, cultural and hip.”

Marion also points to Quebec as a way for younger Francos to get back in touch with their heritage. “We’re the ones that left,” he says. “You can’t go back in time, but you can reconnect with contemporary culture. … Look in the Montreal phone book and we have the same names. We’re all related. You can’t get any better than that.”

Others believe that the best way to revive Franco culture is to replace the centers of social and cultural life that were lost with the closing of French churches, schools and clubs. Carole Salmon, a native of France who teaches French studies at UMass Lowell, has been researching New England’s Franco-Americans for several years.

“We need to replace the cultural centers,” Salmon says, pointing out that Massachusetts is the only New England state that lacks a Franco-American heritage center. “Perhaps Lowell is the place to do this,” she says, noting that one of the city’s shuttered French churches might make an ideal location, considering that many of them were built with donations derived from Franco laborers’ wages. “It’s something to reach for in the future.”

 

La Librairie Populaire
Manchester, N.H.
(603) 669-3788

Franco-American Centre
St. Anselm College
Manchester, N.H.
(603) 641-7114
FACNH.com

Franco-American Festival Week
FrancoLowellMA.com

Ste. Jeanne d’Arc School
Lowell, Mass.
(978) 453-4114
SJdArc.org

 

Authors Note: Although they are not quoted in this article, thanks to David Vermette, Henri Marchand and the Richelieu Club of Lowell for their kindness, support and willingness to share information.

Filed Under: Arts & Entertainment, Community Tagged With: american, franco, french, immigrants, Lowell, Quebec

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