Cover Feature – Last Milkman Standing – July/Aug 2011

Dairy farming has changed, but Shaw Farm in Dracut still delivers.

Landmark silos, roadside ice cream stands, fields of grazing cows and creamy, delicious milk have long defined the dairy farms of New England. In more recent times, these dairy farms have evolved by expanding their offerings to include festivals and attractions such as miniature golf, corn mazes and charming country stores.

Local residents who support land preservation and small, family-owned businesses now regard their local farms as a destination and educational opportunity for their families, and that is helping to breathe new life into an industry that has seen its fair share of struggles.

Dairy farming in New England, and across the nation, has declined significantly in recent decades. Sixty-six percent of the region’s dairy farms have been lost over the past 30 years, according to Keep Local Farms, a program designed to connect customers with local dairy farmers and encourage the purchase of local foods.

The industry has been hard hit by historically low milk prices, adverse weather conditions, and high feed and energy costs. Recovery from these difficult business conditions, which peaked in 2006, was nearly impossible for farmers alone, and while state government assistance in the form of the Dairy Farm Revitalization Task Force and the Farm Viability Enhancement Program has saved some, many were forced out of business.

The Merrimack Valley is home to a few surviving dairy farms, including Richardson’s Ice Cream in Middleton and Shaw Farm in Dracut. The common thread among them is their decision to take their offerings beyond milk.

Scott Soares, commissioner of the Massachusetts Department of Agricultural Resources explains, “Dairy farms that sell fluid milk only will become less competitive. Farms need to look at new ways to diversify their business and become vertically integrated.”

A recent trend promoting agricultural tourism encourages visitors to take advantage of their local farm experience from both entertainment and lifestyle perspectives.

Dave Daniels of Richardson’s Ice Cream in front of the location’s iconic sign on Route 114. Photo by Kevin Harkins.

Kimball Farm of Haverhill left the dairy industry after an accident forced the sale of 160 cattle. Today, the third generation of Kimballs has shifted the focus of the family farm to attractions that include farm animals, a corn maze, hayrides and sleigh rides, and even paintball. Rogers Spring Hill Farm in Bradford is focused
on its garden center and Spring Hill water business.

For some, leaving dairy behind was a tactical business choice. Others, including Richardson’s Ice Cream, have managed to successfully supplement their dairy business by drawing in customers with activities such as miniature golf, batting cages and a driving range. You would be hard pressed to drive past Richardson’s on a warm summer night without seeing lines and crowds.

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Shaw Farm in Dracut is the last dairy farm in the region that delivers milk. The notion of milk filled glass bottles brought to your doorstep seems rather old school, but Shaw Farm has been delivering milk and dairy products to families in the Merrimack Valley since 1908.

Shaw Farm boasts a rich history and has withstood the test of time. Today, fourth generation owner Warren Shaw carries on the traditions started by his great grandfather, Mark L. Shaw Sr.

Like many dairy farms, Shaw Farm is a family-run business in the truest sense. Its long history has been chronicled thanks to Mark L. Shaw Jr., who maintained a detailed record of the business. “So many families that have history don’t record it,” Warren Shaw said. “My grandfather, in his day, was ahead of the curve in making sure that somebody knew what had happened.”

Warren Shaw continues to move forward with the times, offering his customers a robust website complete with online ordering, a daily blog, and a wealth of information about the farm’s origin, products and current events. Upgrades to the facility and a newly constructed retail store also contribute to the farm’s enduring appeal.

Keeping up with the times, Shaw's fresh milk comes in a variety of flavors. It does, however, remain bottled in glass bottles, as it has since 1908. Photo by Kevin Harkins.

Staying current and accessible to its customers has been an important part of Shaw Farm’s presence in the community. “I think it is important for any retail business to have a quality presentation on the Web,” Shaw said. “Many businesses do a fair amount of marketing on the Web, and we are no exception to that — traditional businesses also have to grow.”

Like Soares, the Department of Agricultural Resources commissioner, Warren Shaw recognized a business need for vertical integration, and in the fall of 2009 he began offering quality grocery items in conjunction with his dairy products. Food items ranging from Boar’s Head meats and cheeses to Shaw Farm’s own fresh-baked muffins and homemade soups have been made available in the store and for delivery. In addition, Shaw’s farm-fresh products can be found in places such as Whole Foods Market, A Simply Wholesome Life in Windham, N.H., Mann Orchard in Methuen, Sparks Stony Brook Farm in Westford and Kickass Cupcakes in Somerville.

Faithful customers of Shaw Farm share a “shop local” mindset that is becoming increasingly prevalent as consumers learn of the risks faced by small, local businesses. “Our customers are committed to a local lifestyle,” Shaw said. And though there is an interest in organic options, it is the non-organic products that are most popular at Shaw Farm, simply because customers see value in local items reaching their tables in the freshest form possible. Organic or not, according to Shaw, they have never used artificial growth hormones on their cows.

Jennifer and Eric McKenzie of Dunstable have been Shaw Farm delivery customers for seven years. They and their five children believe firmly that the fresh and local products they receive from Shaw are superior to conventionally produced products in quality and taste. “The quality of their products is so much better than anything you will find in the local supermarket,” Jennifer said. “It is not even comparable.”

The benefits extended to the consumer both in taste and value can be attributed significantly to the care of the cows. “Our cows are very well managed,” Shaw said. “Everything we do, we do in the best possible way.” A nutritionist reviews the feeding program and veterinarians are on-site every three weeks to check on the herd.

Shaw Farm in Dracut. Photo by Kevin Harkins.

A portion of what Shaw Farm feeds to its cows is grown on the farm. Its grass-based crops and corn are harvested regularly and prepared for consumption, while grain is brought in from out
of state. That can be a costly import, as elevated fuel prices directly impact the production and transportation of grain.

According to Shaw that does not change the motivation to persevere and continue the Shaw family legacy. The old-fashioned, welcoming atmosphere at the farm is itself an attraction, enticing visitors to stop in for a barn tour, ice cream festival or birthday party, or simply to buy some fresh milk, ice cream or eggs.

The dairy industry is a cornerstone of the agricultural community, in which small, local farms play an important role. Today’s local dairy farmers have accepted an important challenge to continue producing quality dairy products and more to the towns they serve.

Their goal is to keep it fresh, keep it local and keep it going.