Spanish Eyes – Me Quedo

I’m staying in Seville – come see why.

Explore the impressive Alcázar, including its beautiful gardens.

Most of my American friends in Seville spent nine months talking — and stressing — about returning to the United States to start their “real lives.” Though I participated in this activity at the beginning, it became blatantly obvious over time that my “real life” had already begun — one of many revelations I’ve experienced. It also became evident that Americans often have a certain notion about what “real life” must entail, including stress, long work hours, and the feeling that they’re making some sort of sacrifice for a greater purpose (or money). In Seville, where stress is almost taboo, I have more than a real life. I have a fabulous real life — real and wonderful are not mutually exclusive.

So, the rest is quite simple. Me quedo. I’m staying. I’ll be teaching at an English school, giving private lessons and also taking Spanish classes. To try to fully describe all of the reasons that led me to stay would require way more words than my limit here allows (a limit I always exceed, anyway). This only leaves one option: Visit Seville and see for yourself why calling this beautiful city home for another year (or longer) was an easy decision for me. And who knows? Maybe you’ll end up wanting to stay, too.

Andalusia whimsically embodies all of the Spanish clichés and stereotypes you might imagine. As the region’s capital, Seville is the perfectly romanticized representation of the palpable passion and excitement of this awe-inspiring part of Spain. Though you shouldn’t expect to find matadors gallivanting around the city waving their red flags at bulls, or flamenco dancers on every corner accompanied by a singer and guitarist, you surely can satisfy your desire for Spanish culture in Seville, the intoxicating heart of Andalusia.

A fun and lively time to visit is during fiesta season (March and April), which is also when the weather is generally good. May, September and October are other temperate months. Only a few days are needed to see Seville’s major sights, but spending more time in the city will allow you to really explore and embrace the laid-back lifestyle, and also to travel to other parts of Andalusia.

The most famous architectural masterpiece in Seville is the cathedral, which is the third largest cathedral in the world and the largest Gothic building ever constructed. Climb the Giralda — the cathedral’s 12th century Moorish minaret — for magnificent panoramic views of the city. The nearby Alcázar of Seville — the Moorish and Catholic royal fortress-palace — also features an impressive structural design and beautiful gardens.

Seville’s main shopping area is on and around Calle Sierpes in the center of the city. You can find everything there from wedding and flamenco dresses, to traditional handicrafts, to the latest fashions. Most shops close for siesta roughly between 2:30 and 5 p.m., and then open again in the evening, usually until 9.

This stunning view of the Giralda can be seen from various rooftop bars in Seville. Climb to the top for great views of the city.

Parque de María Luisa is a beautiful and relaxing place for a stroll, and at the edge of the park lies the magnificent Plaza de España. The neighborhood of Triana, which was once known as the gypsy quarter, has a different vibe from the center and is worthy of a visit. Also, you’ll enjoy getting lost in the winding streets of Barrio de Santa Cruz, the old Jewish quarter.

You can’t leave Andalusia without experiencing the art of flamenco, which exemplifies the passion that fills the region. My favorite place to experience this harmonious collaboration of dance, song and guitar is at a bar called T de Triana, where you can see a free flamenco show while enjoying a drink and tapas.

The Plaza de Toros is one of the most famous bullrings in Spain, and bullfights can be seen from Easter Sunday until October. Soccer, fútbol, is incredibly popular (World Cup Champions!). Any opportunity to see a game in person involving one of Seville’s two rival teams or just watching any game on television in a bar with the locals is an entertaining experience.

With thousands of restaurants and bars in Seville, you could easily spend an entire vacation eating, drinking and taking siestas. Breakfast, desayuno, is normally eaten around 10 a.m., and any of the thousands of bars offer the basic Spanish breakfast. Lunch, almuerzo, is the main meal of the day and is usually served between 3 and 4 p.m. Many restaurants offer a menú del día for less than 10 euros. Dinner, cena, is usually after 9 p.m. and is a lighter meal, usually tapas, which are said to have been invented in Seville. My favorite dishes include gazpacho, salmorejo, espinacas con garbanzos, pisto and tortilla española. Get a taste of the traditional cuisine at Tabernas Coloniales. For a modern twist on traditional tapas and much more, try my two favorite restaurants, Sidonia and Duo Tapas. Then head over to Rayas for a delicious ice cream cone.

For Sevillanos, drinking is the ultimate social experience. Every gathering and every bite of food (except for breakfast — usually) is accompanied by Cruzcampo beer, wine and/or tinto de verano (a red wine spritzer). There are countless places with a great ambience to have a drink, but be sure to stop by these three: Plaza Salvador, the terrace of EME catedral hotel, and the Alameda de Hércules.

If you do find yourself in Seville in the coming year, drop me an e-mail — I would be thrilled to offer advice or insights for your vacation. This region, rich with culture, history and passion for life, is a wonderful place to visit and discover, while simultaneously discovering yourself.

While my time in Spain is far from over, my column has come to an end. I hope you’ve enjoyed reading about my adventures, thoughts and emotions as much as I’ve enjoyed sharing them with you. Besos y abrazos! (kisses and hugs!)

( Editors Note: This column concludes Natasha’s reporting on her experiences during her (first) year in Spain. Thankfully this Merrimack Valley native will continue to pen Style File and other stories in mvm. )

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