Tuna sashimi on braised orange ginger. Photo by Kevin Harkins.
Like the Steely Dan song it’s named after, Black Cow in Newburyport is a classic. Located at the mouth of the Merrimack River, this all-American restaurant is custom made for sultry nights.
With boats bobbing in the water a few feet away, and automobile headlights creating a light show over the Gillis Bridge, you could capture all the sensations of summer in one evening on Black Cow’s coveted deck. It almost doesn’t matter what’s on the menu. Almost.
“Our motto is quality food simply prepared,” said general manager Michael Duratti, who is not going to let the ambiance of this 11-year-old downtown mainstay take a front seat to taste.
Being all things to all diners is Black Cow’s genius. Let’s start with space, which is generous.
There are several diverse dining zones in this emporium. An open dining room swathed in dark wood with flickering candles is perfect for family gatherings, a romantic rendezvous or that big business meeting. The comfortable lounge, with a bevy of microbrews on tap and high-top tables, is the place to watch the game with friends. The expansive outdoor deck, equipped with heaters and a second bar, is summertime dining headquarters. Go for dinner during the week, or for lunch, if you don’t want to wait.
The lobster croissant turns the quintessential New England sandwich into a tasty hit. Photo by Kevin Harkins.
To satisfy all tastes, Black Cow’s menu features typical pub food, including burgers, and atypical offerings such as the swordfish BLT. Finding appetizers such as P.E.I. mussels, crab cakes and chicken tenders a tad predictable, we started off with tuna sashimi.
Served on braised orange-ginger carrots, this raw, high-grade fish was the pick-me-up we were looking for. Stacked domino style with soy sauce and wasabi cream, it’s a tangy burst of dynamite sushi.
Beer arrives in a frosted mug with a handle. This pleased the beer drinker in our group. Local ales such as Fisherman’s Brew from Gloucester, Ipswich Ale and Peak’s Organic rule. The bottle list is no slouch, with Julius Echter Hefe-Weiss and La Fin Du Monde being strong representations.
Spinach salad came next. A large plate of dark leaves flecked with sun-dried tomatoes, pine nuts, mushrooms, blue cheese crema and shallot-red wine vinaigrette looked healthy. That is until I peered under the hood. Hiding beneath the greens was a thick smear of sour cream and blue cheese (aka crema). Was this a mistake? No says Duratti, the crema is there for your dipping pleasure. If this is a trend, I hope it ends here. I want to taste fresh greens not disguise them.
When the baked haddock arrived, all was forgotten.
The battered up, butter-laden dish that ruled the 1970s dining scene has taken a sumptuous turn in executive chef Christopher LeClair’s measured hands.
Turning a Ritz-cracker topped, not-at-all-sexy fish into an entree that emanates nostalgia but tastes of-the-moment is no small feat. Served over garlic mashed potatoes and zucchini in a lemon white wine sauce, it’s the essence of summer. Savor each tender bite.
With a name like Black Cow, beef has to play a role. Carnivores will not leave peckish. Filet mignon, cowboy steak (code name for large cut) and New York strip are served steakhouse style, with sauces and sides served a la carte. The strip steak is all-natural meat from corn-fed cows. Grilled pork T-bone steak and baby back ribs are other hearty choices.
But this is summer, and lighter fare calls. Of the sandwiches that sound tempting, the lobster croissant stands out like a staggering beauty. Nuggets of precious sweet meat tucked into a flaky French pastry turn the quintessential New England sandwich into a tasty hit. Why hasn’t anyone thought of this before?
The buttery croissant pairs delectably with the lightly dressed salad. It’s a sandwich you could go back to again and again, and never feel cheated, even at $23 a pop.
Black Cow’s desserts are not likely to nab any James Beard awards for creativity. But if you are in the mood for chocolate, any addict will be sated by the flourless chocolate cake with dark chocolate ganache, chocolate truffle, raspberry sauce and creme anglaise.
Visit Black Cow for above-average fare that won’t offend anyone’s sensibilities.
Black Cow is located at 54R Merrimac Street, Newburyport. The restaurant serves lunch Monday through Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Dinner is served Sunday through Thursday 5 to 9:30 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 p.m.
(978) 499-8811 www.BlackCowRestaurants.com
Good Eats – Black Cow Tap & Grill
Tuna sashimi on braised orange ginger. Photo by Kevin Harkins.
Like the Steely Dan song it’s named after, Black Cow in Newburyport is a classic. Located at the mouth of the Merrimack River, this all-American restaurant is custom made for sultry nights.
With boats bobbing in the water a few feet away, and automobile headlights creating a light show over the Gillis Bridge, you could capture all the sensations of summer in one evening on Black Cow’s coveted deck. It almost doesn’t matter what’s on the menu. Almost.
“Our motto is quality food simply prepared,” said general manager Michael Duratti, who is not going to let the ambiance of this 11-year-old downtown mainstay take a front seat to taste.
Being all things to all diners is Black Cow’s genius. Let’s start with space, which is generous.
There are several diverse dining zones in this emporium. An open dining room swathed in dark wood with flickering candles is perfect for family gatherings, a romantic rendezvous or that big business meeting. The comfortable lounge, with a bevy of microbrews on tap and high-top tables, is the place to watch the game with friends. The expansive outdoor deck, equipped with heaters and a second bar, is summertime dining headquarters. Go for dinner during the week, or for lunch, if you don’t want to wait.
The lobster croissant turns the quintessential New England sandwich into a tasty hit. Photo by Kevin Harkins.
To satisfy all tastes, Black Cow’s menu features typical pub food, including burgers, and atypical offerings such as the swordfish BLT. Finding appetizers such as P.E.I. mussels, crab cakes and chicken tenders a tad predictable, we started off with tuna sashimi.
Served on braised orange-ginger carrots, this raw, high-grade fish was the pick-me-up we were looking for. Stacked domino style with soy sauce and wasabi cream, it’s a tangy burst of dynamite sushi.
Beer arrives in a frosted mug with a handle. This pleased the beer drinker in our group. Local ales such as Fisherman’s Brew from Gloucester, Ipswich Ale and Peak’s Organic rule. The bottle list is no slouch, with Julius Echter Hefe-Weiss and La Fin Du Monde being strong representations.
Spinach salad came next. A large plate of dark leaves flecked with sun-dried tomatoes, pine nuts, mushrooms, blue cheese crema and shallot-red wine vinaigrette looked healthy. That is until I peered under the hood. Hiding beneath the greens was a thick smear of sour cream and blue cheese (aka crema). Was this a mistake? No says Duratti, the crema is there for your dipping pleasure. If this is a trend, I hope it ends here. I want to taste fresh greens not disguise them.
When the baked haddock arrived, all was forgotten.
The battered up, butter-laden dish that ruled the 1970s dining scene has taken a sumptuous turn in executive chef Christopher LeClair’s measured hands.
Turning a Ritz-cracker topped, not-at-all-sexy fish into an entree that emanates nostalgia but tastes of-the-moment is no small feat. Served over garlic mashed potatoes and zucchini in a lemon white wine sauce, it’s the essence of summer. Savor each tender bite.
With a name like Black Cow, beef has to play a role. Carnivores will not leave peckish. Filet mignon, cowboy steak (code name for large cut) and New York strip are served steakhouse style, with sauces and sides served a la carte. The strip steak is all-natural meat from corn-fed cows. Grilled pork T-bone steak and baby back ribs are other hearty choices.
But this is summer, and lighter fare calls. Of the sandwiches that sound tempting, the lobster croissant stands out like a staggering beauty. Nuggets of precious sweet meat tucked into a flaky French pastry turn the quintessential New England sandwich into a tasty hit. Why hasn’t anyone thought of this before?
The buttery croissant pairs delectably with the lightly dressed salad. It’s a sandwich you could go back to again and again, and never feel cheated, even at $23 a pop.
Black Cow’s desserts are not likely to nab any James Beard awards for creativity. But if you are in the mood for chocolate, any addict will be sated by the flourless chocolate cake with dark chocolate ganache, chocolate truffle, raspberry sauce and creme anglaise.
Visit Black Cow for above-average fare that won’t offend anyone’s sensibilities.
Black Cow is located at 54R Merrimac Street, Newburyport. The restaurant serves lunch Monday through Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Dinner is served Sunday through Thursday 5 to 9:30 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 p.m.
(978) 499-8811 www.BlackCowRestaurants.com