Luna Rossa features a playful mural of Italian peasants eating along the far wall. Photo by Kevin Harkins.
It’s not always about location.
Amid the office parks of Andover and Tewksbury, Luna Rossa could hardly have a lower profile. Located in a strip mall and windowless, with a sign that’s easy to miss, this red-sauce Italian restaurant feels like an afterthought. That is, until you go inside.
On a recent Saturday night, young couples and multigenerational families lingered over linguini. Tony Bennett crooned on the stereo. Candles danced on the tables. The owner greeted us, and just like that we were in the middle of a Billy Joel song … “A bottle of red, a bottle of white, whatever kind of mood you’re in tonight.”
Luna Rossa has thrived for 12 years by remembering that warmth, affordability and zero pretension is always in style. Although the kitchen was to close in a half hour, our waitress let us contemplate the wine list and didn’t rush through the evening’s specials — sausage lentil zuppa, vegetable ravioli and grilled swordfish.
Across the way, a playful mural of Italian peasants eating spaghetti with their fingers amused me. “We are just trying to have some fun,” said owner David DiCenso, who grew up in an prototypical Italian family of chefs. His grandfather, Davio DiCenso is Back Bay restaurant royalty. He was the head chef at Davio’s on Newbury Street, which David’s godfather, Dominic DiCenso, opened in the 1970s. David’s brother, Damiano, cooks at Luna Rossa, and his father, Angelo DiCenso, runs Donatello’s in Saugus, where his uncle, Nino, is the head chef. Confused?
Co-Owner David DiCenso holding antipasto and Chef Diamiano DiCenso holding Margherita Pizza. Photo by Kevin Harkins.
Remember this: The DiCenso name is synonymous with value. Few entrees creep past $20 at Luna Rossa. “We are Italian. We like to feed people,” David said. That doesn’t mean Luna Rossa is just a spaghetti and meatball joint. There are standbys, such as fried calamari and penne alla vodka, homemade gnocchi and rigatoni, and enough vegetarian options to please all.
To start, we ordered “Eggplant Involtini” — thinly sliced, pan-fried eggplant layered with prosciutto, fresh ricotta cheese and roasted peppers, slathered in a tangy plum tomato basil sauce. It was cheesy, delightful fun. The house chianti (Piccini) was a perfect pairing. Its acidic arc cut through the heft of this dish. At $5, that’s all one can ask. Adventurous martini drinkers should try the “Amalfi Coast,” which resembles the azure waters of that picture-postcard strip.
Straying from Abruzzo, whence the DiCenso’s hail, I ordered “Filet of Sole Francesé” and was glad I did. Dipped in egg batter and pan fried in a light lemon caper white-wine sauce, the classic Mediterranean dish was on the mark. I wish I could say the same for the accompanying lemon asparagus risotto. Rice studded with asparagus with lemon juice does not a risotto make. Where was the creamy texture? This wouldn’t fly in Rome, but the delicate fish made up for it.
Chicken Braciolettini - chicken stuffed with spinach and ricotta cheese in a tomato, basic cream sauce. Photo by Kevin Harkins.
My tablemate’s “Chicken Braciolettini” — chicken stuffed with spinach and ricotta cheese in a tomato basil cream sauce — was billed as a house signature. So it surprised us when this attractive entree was overcooked. Despite the chicken’s lack of tenderness, it was an adequate foil for the treats inside. And oddly, this tasted better the next day as a leftover.
We didn’t fall for the tray of chocolate tortes and cheesecake for dessert, and we waived off cappuccino, but were pleased to find authentic Italian coffee drinks were available.
It’s easy to dismiss Luna Rossa as a bargain hunter’s domain, but you’re selling it short. Order a bottle of red, a bottle of white and make your own Billy Joel moment. Or better yet, write a new verse.
Luna Rossa is located at 174 Dascomb Road in Tewksbury. The restaurant serves lunch Monday through Saturday, starting at 11:30 a.m. Dinner is served Sunday, Monday and Tuesday until 8:30 p.m., Wednesday and Thursday until 9 p.m., and Friday and Saturday until 9:30 p.m.
(978) 851-9282. www.LunaRossa-Restaurant.com.
Good Eats – Luna Rossa
Luna Rossa features a playful mural of Italian peasants eating along the far wall. Photo by Kevin Harkins.
It’s not always about location.
Amid the office parks of Andover and Tewksbury, Luna Rossa could hardly have a lower profile. Located in a strip mall and windowless, with a sign that’s easy to miss, this red-sauce Italian restaurant feels like an afterthought. That is, until you go inside.
On a recent Saturday night, young couples and multigenerational families lingered over linguini. Tony Bennett crooned on the stereo. Candles danced on the tables. The owner greeted us, and just like that we were in the middle of a Billy Joel song … “A bottle of red, a bottle of white, whatever kind of mood you’re in tonight.”
Luna Rossa has thrived for 12 years by remembering that warmth, affordability and zero pretension is always in style. Although the kitchen was to close in a half hour, our waitress let us contemplate the wine list and didn’t rush through the evening’s specials — sausage lentil zuppa, vegetable ravioli and grilled swordfish.
Across the way, a playful mural of Italian peasants eating spaghetti with their fingers amused me. “We are just trying to have some fun,” said owner David DiCenso, who grew up in an prototypical Italian family of chefs. His grandfather, Davio DiCenso is Back Bay restaurant royalty. He was the head chef at Davio’s on Newbury Street, which David’s godfather, Dominic DiCenso, opened in the 1970s. David’s brother, Damiano, cooks at Luna Rossa, and his father, Angelo DiCenso, runs Donatello’s in Saugus, where his uncle, Nino, is the head chef. Confused?
Co-Owner David DiCenso holding antipasto and Chef Diamiano DiCenso holding Margherita Pizza. Photo by Kevin Harkins.
Remember this: The DiCenso name is synonymous with value. Few entrees creep past $20 at Luna Rossa. “We are Italian. We like to feed people,” David said. That doesn’t mean Luna Rossa is just a spaghetti and meatball joint. There are standbys, such as fried calamari and penne alla vodka, homemade gnocchi and rigatoni, and enough vegetarian options to please all.
To start, we ordered “Eggplant Involtini” — thinly sliced, pan-fried eggplant layered with prosciutto, fresh ricotta cheese and roasted peppers, slathered in a tangy plum tomato basil sauce. It was cheesy, delightful fun. The house chianti (Piccini) was a perfect pairing. Its acidic arc cut through the heft of this dish. At $5, that’s all one can ask. Adventurous martini drinkers should try the “Amalfi Coast,” which resembles the azure waters of that picture-postcard strip.
Straying from Abruzzo, whence the DiCenso’s hail, I ordered “Filet of Sole Francesé” and was glad I did. Dipped in egg batter and pan fried in a light lemon caper white-wine sauce, the classic Mediterranean dish was on the mark. I wish I could say the same for the accompanying lemon asparagus risotto. Rice studded with asparagus with lemon juice does not a risotto make. Where was the creamy texture? This wouldn’t fly in Rome, but the delicate fish made up for it.
Chicken Braciolettini - chicken stuffed with spinach and ricotta cheese in a tomato, basic cream sauce. Photo by Kevin Harkins.
My tablemate’s “Chicken Braciolettini” — chicken stuffed with spinach and ricotta cheese in a tomato basil cream sauce — was billed as a house signature. So it surprised us when this attractive entree was overcooked. Despite the chicken’s lack of tenderness, it was an adequate foil for the treats inside. And oddly, this tasted better the next day as a leftover.
We didn’t fall for the tray of chocolate tortes and cheesecake for dessert, and we waived off cappuccino, but were pleased to find authentic Italian coffee drinks were available.
It’s easy to dismiss Luna Rossa as a bargain hunter’s domain, but you’re selling it short. Order a bottle of red, a bottle of white and make your own Billy Joel moment. Or better yet, write a new verse.
Luna Rossa is located at 174 Dascomb Road in Tewksbury. The restaurant serves lunch Monday through Saturday, starting at 11:30 a.m. Dinner is served Sunday, Monday and Tuesday until 8:30 p.m., Wednesday and Thursday until 9 p.m., and Friday and Saturday until 9:30 p.m.
(978) 851-9282. www.LunaRossa-Restaurant.com.