Good Eats – Mission Oak Grill

Mission Oak Grill InteriorUpon arrival I was impressed by the location of Mission Oak Grill, which resides in an historic Baptist church located near N-ewburyport’s beautiful waterfront. The remarkable architecture of the church gives the restaurant an awe-inspiring presence that just can’t be missed. New restaurant owner Wellington Augusto capitalized on this notable property—the former home of the Kiwi Grille—by creating a 180-seat dining room neighboring a full-scale bar and complemented by an authentic steakhouse menu. It is Wellington’s first venture in starting his own business, and since opening in October 2006, the restaurant has been a success.

Although the space is quite large, the dining room is designed in a way to seclude different seating areas and make a more private dining experience for its guests.

“Mission Oak is a dark wood design from California that we used to create a warm, comfortable atmosphere for our dining room and as inspiration for the restaurant title,” explains Wellington. “We added ‘Grill’ to represent the need for a steakhouse in Newburyport, and for our interpretation of fresh ingredients inspired from California.”

Mission Oak Grill Exterior

We visited Mission Oak Grill on a slow night when we could enjoy the comforts of a relaxed dining room. By our request, the Maitre D’ seated us in a booth located next to the open kitchen. Our waitress promptly greeted us with dinner menus along with an extensive wine list featuring over 300 bottles and a nice selection of wines by the glass. To accompany our meals we chose the Château Fondarzac, a light and fruity Bordeaux Superieur with an intense aroma, and the Collin Bourisset, a bold and rich Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

We started with the crab cakes and yellow fin tuna tartar. The crab cakes were served on a bed of greens and topped with mango salsa. While the salsa was refreshing, the crab was covered with a thick, over-fried batter that masked its flavor.

The tuna reminded me of a larger version of a spicy tuna maki. A circular mold of sushi rice was topped with julienne English cucumber, nori, and a layer of chilled yellow fin tuna tartar. Pickled ginger topped the tuna, and dipping sauces of sweet soy caramel and spicy mayo lined the sides of the dish. Along with a remarkable presentation, this was a light, enjoyable appetizer, which paired well with the refreshing flavor of the Château Fondarzac.

Our entrées consisted of the filet mignon and seared diver scallops. I ordered the filet medium; it came a little overcooked, but the meat was still very tender. The mashed potatoes were excessively whipped, giving a light, airy texture. A mixture of wild roasted mushrooms, plum tomato, and shoestring beans provided a nice combination of flavors and good accompaniment for plate presentation. The filet was topped with a sweet meritage demi glace, which consisted of blended Bordeaux reduced with natural beef jus, a perfect complement to my steak.

The four jumbo scallops were seared well on one side and served medium over a rock shrimp and ham risotto. “Sautéed rapini,” otherwise known as broccoli rabe, accompanied the scallops. The flavors of the risotto came together well and the Arborio rice was creamy, not overcooked. The scallops had a nice caramelized surface, though I would have preferred the center cooked through a little more.

Mission Oak Grill Chef

Chef Jason Downs

As we were deciding on dessert, our waitress convinced us to try the chefs’ variation of “s’mores.”  The presentation of this dish is quite spectacular. Served on one side of a long rectangular plate was a warm chocolate cake oozing with a creamy ganache chocolate-filled center. On the other side was a scoop of French vanilla ice cream coated with a mixture of graham crackers, cinnamon, nutmeg, and brown sugar. A pool of marshmallow cream stretching across the middle of the plate was bruléed on top to give the essence of toasted marshmallow by the fire. The flavors truly complemented the presentation, allowing us a real treat to finish our meal.

While appetizers range from $9-$15 and entrees from $16-$30, the food, atmosphere, and service gave us an overall enjoyable experience that merited its cost. On a future visit I would love to try their steamed mussels with Gorgonzola crema and Wellington’s signature grilled churrasco.

Mission Oak Grill is located at 26 Green Street in Newburyport, Massachusetts. Above the elaborate dining room is a large ballroom which hosts weddings for parties up to 250 people and can hold as many as 400 people for a reception. The restaurant opens daily at 5:00 p.m. Reservations are recommended on weekends and private parties are welcome. 978-463-9009; www.missionoakgrill.com

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